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  #1  
Old 04-04-2004, 07:09 PM
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Window requlator Removal

Well, I'm finally getting around to my window problem and locking system problem. Got the drivers door disassembled fine, found a bad vac switch for the door, replaced it and still have a leak somewhere in the lock line. Unlock is pretty good but not perfect so off I go chasing another leak elsewhere.

Now to the window regulator. How does that devil come out? Lots of parts, small hole. Should the window be up or down for this evolution. I can see this will be a world of fun.

Tks for any help.

Also, while we're at it.....can someone share with me how to get at the lock for the trunk....short of using a can opener. I can see the lines going into the hump over the mechanism, but no access.

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Litton
'90 420 SEL (sold)
'72 280 SEL 4.5
'98 ML320 (for sale)
'86 560SL
'05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd (offroad in style)
'87 Chevy Blazer (AZ Pin Strips)

Last edited by Litton; 04-04-2004 at 07:51 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-04-2004, 08:04 PM
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Trunk lock mechanism: There's a little plastic cover inside, to the right - line with a "Y" to split the lock vac to the gas tank lock and trunk lock. The 2 brass phillips screws inside the trunk remove the unit itself. To take it off, there's a clip on the lock mechanism - remove the latch (2 phillips screws) and you'll see where it connects.

As for the window regulator, I had mine halfway down - there were 2 (10mm?) bolts holding the hinged part of the lift arm to the window (The arm is riveted to a smaller brass piece that runs paralell to the support on the bottom of the glass, and said brass piece is bolted with those 2 bolts), and I believe 3 nuts holding the regulator itself in. Support the window, let it gently go down. Reinstallation is backwards.
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  #3  
Old 04-04-2004, 08:21 PM
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Got it....well at least the lock. Sure enough, the lock diapgram in leaking but the unlock is OK. I think they are replaceable if on can find the parts. Any suggestion on that?

Now to tackle the regulart. I definitly have stripped teeth and a new on is on the way.
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Litton
'90 420 SEL (sold)
'72 280 SEL 4.5
'98 ML320 (for sale)
'86 560SL
'05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd (offroad in style)
'87 Chevy Blazer (AZ Pin Strips)
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2004, 08:53 PM
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I used silicone on all of mine that leaked, and they leak no more.

Regulator itself is available through FastLane or mbz.org - Last I checked, they didn't show jack squat for the 108 but they had them for the 116 and a few look identical (the trunk's, I remember, was one). But they were like $60 or something IIRC
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  #5  
Old 04-05-2004, 08:17 AM
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window reg...

Hey Litton, I replaced my RF regulator in Dec. and it was far easier than either of the two, RF, RR, I did a few years ago on the 65 Mustang. Mine had ground some teeth because the pot metal casting which serves as the main mount for the motor flexed/cracked and let the drive gear gnaw on the regulator teeth.

Mine also had dropped the mounting clip and plastic bushing which rides/slides in the track, but I found the necessary pieces laying in the bottom of the door. Swapped my old motor onto the new regulator and buttoned it up in about 1.5 hrs. as I recall. The job was pleasantly straightforward with little cause for irritating little adjustments and such. Wish I would have tightened up the ventwing mechanism while I was in there, I've got a wind whistle on each side. Of course, my rubber seems to be original also, so, perhaps there is not enuf adjustment to eradicate the noise!

I got the regulator from IPS for about $100 since I have yet to find a junkyard nearby with a donor for me.
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2004, 10:17 AM
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Thanks guys. I will pull the diaphrams off and try the silicone...can't hurt and easy to check before reassembly.

I did notice that the fabric insert for the frount window track was coming loose and twisting.....this chould be a partial cause for the regulator wearing out as it looks like it may twist and bind a bit when the window comes down. I don't suppose anyone knows of a souuce for these items. Hate to uuse junk yard stuff as it will probably be of similiar vintage.

I did order the regulator from fastlane for $98.00 for the aftermarket one. Sure hope that I didn't save 20 bucks only to waste 98.00.

Today the regulator comes out and I would like to replace that track if I can find one. Otherwise, I may try lubing it with silicone and cementing it back into the metal frame.
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Litton
'90 420 SEL (sold)
'72 280 SEL 4.5
'98 ML320 (for sale)
'86 560SL
'05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd (offroad in style)
'87 Chevy Blazer (AZ Pin Strips)
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  #7  
Old 04-05-2004, 11:46 AM
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Window brush - FastLane used to have it (quite expensive I remember) but it seems to be out of stock now. As were ignition points
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2004, 12:15 PM
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I would have thought that the window brush was the horizontal piece right at the arm rest. Ok, I will give them a call and see if it is available.
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Litton
'90 420 SEL (sold)
'72 280 SEL 4.5
'98 ML320 (for sale)
'86 560SL
'05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd (offroad in style)
'87 Chevy Blazer (AZ Pin Strips)
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  #9  
Old 04-08-2004, 12:07 AM
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Performance Analysis in Oakridge TN has lock diaphrams for $5.00 each. Very nice, did my brother's 75 300D last year. No diaphrams for the trunk or gas cap locks unless the ones in the W108 are the same as the doors (I rigged one up).

Peter
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  #10  
Old 04-08-2004, 01:37 AM
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For the 108, trunk uses the same design as the 116 trunk, and follows the 3 doors on the 108.

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Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k
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