Like all projects regarding these cars, after a bit they take on a life of their own. What started off as a simple left side regulator replacement has turned into a "might as well do the door lock diaphrams", and "might as well refinish the wood", and "I'm in the trunk anyway, might as well replace the seal", to Aw Shucks now I'm stuck.

Now I have nothing completed and everything started. Anyway, regarding the trunk seal. I have the old one off, the channel nice and clean, rust repaired and painted, and the new gasket dangling form the trunk lid. I have a tube of gasket aheasive (MB now sells the 3M product) and a dazed look on my face. How do I coat the seal and the channel then stick it togeather without making a mistake. Do I do the whole thing at one time or should I work in small sections? How much working time do I have after I stick the seal in the channel before the adheasive sets up?

Any advice will be appreciated.

__________________
Litton
'90 420 SEL (sold)
'72 280 SEL 4.5
'98 ML320 (for sale)
'86 560SL
'05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd (offroad in style)
'87 Chevy Blazer (AZ Pin Strips)

Thanx for starting this thread because I am most definitely gonna need to pursue this simple/complex refurbishment also. Can't wait for the collective wisdom to weigh in

Oh yeh, sorry if I gave you false hope with a response, since I have no advice/info/experience in this...

Still struggling with the trunk seak, but, while I'm waiting for the experts to step forth.....I said, what the heck....while the doors are apart "I might as well replace the window brushes". Thanks to this forum, I got the info on HOW TO and now one window is done.

__________________
Litton
'90 420 SEL (sold)
'72 280 SEL 4.5
'98 ML320 (for sale)
'86 560SL
'05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd (offroad in style)
'87 Chevy Blazer (AZ Pin Strips)

If the seal agent you have is what I think it is, it doesn't "set" in any hurry. You can reposition it at will.

Do you have anything left of the old seal? try it on a piece of that. -CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Ugh, those seals are a big PITA.

Coat the channel and the gasket with a THIN coat of 3M adhesive (it's contact adhesive). Make SURE the gasket is clean first, or the adhesive will peel off.

Align the gasket at the bottom corners to get it in right, but start glueing at the top ones, they are the worst part and if you pull on them to get the gasket seated elsewhere, or don't leave enough slack, they pull loose. Grrr.... Took a long time and several tries to get the left front corner to stick on the 300D.

Let both surfaces dry to barely tacky, then put another THIN coat on the gasket on a short section and let dry a bit, then stick it down. If you get it right, it will stick and STAY, not slide around or let loose when you more on. Make sure you get it seated correctly, as repositioning is a real PITA -- the cement usually pulls off one side or the other and you end up with too much.

Given the fits we had with the 75, you might want to check for fit, then glue only the front and part way down the side, let it sit overnight, then do the rest to avoid pulling the front corners loose.

Please be sparing with the cement -- too much, and it will peel off the steel and paint -- stays on the gasket fine, but won't stay stuck to the metal.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Peter, thanks for the detailed discription of this task. I thought it might be a PITA and I was going to start in the lower corners but you comment makes a lot of sense. When I was fitting it in place, the upper corners definitly were a problem.

If I understand you correctly, you only apply the adhesive on a short section at a time, stick it in place then move on to another short section after the first is set up. Is this correct? Maybe use some clamps to hold it in place?

In the likly event of an "aw shucks" can you pull the seal back up without destroying it.....these things are bloody expensive.

Seperate note, got both front doors outfitted with new window brushs and will do the rears today. My wife is having ball varnishing the window wood but doesn't know when she should stop. Got about 6-7 coats on now and still going at the rate of 1 coat every two days. By the time I get done with the rest of the stuff she may have 20 coats.

__________________
Litton
'90 420 SEL (sold)
'72 280 SEL 4.5
'98 ML320 (for sale)
'86 560SL
'05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd (offroad in style)
'87 Chevy Blazer (AZ Pin Strips)

Litton:

You can remove it for a while, but after a day or so, while the seal may come off, the adhesive will have to be removed with solvent.

Clamping the upper corners overnight or 48 hrs is a good idea!

20 coats of varnish is about right for factory finish (it was catalyzed nitrocellulose laquer). I used Spar varnish thinned 30%, rubbed down with scotchbrite between coats, then rubbed down flat with pumice and polished back up to low gloss with rottenstone. Lots of work, but you want a THICK finish with high UV resistance, and you DON'T want mirror gloss -- the glare on a sunny day will kill you!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!