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#1
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Oil Pump Fitting Leak
In the name of preventative maintenance, I recently changed my oil lines, keeping the bent steel lines while replacing the rubber hoses and their fittings.
After reassembly, I seem to have developed an oil leak coming from the fitting on the underside of my oil pump. Is the use of teflon tape on an oil line kosher? I was thinking the hi temps or oil ingredients would eat the teflon. Thanks! Last edited by JMela; 05-02-2004 at 09:00 PM. |
#2
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nope. Depending on which threaded connections you're talking about, they are either compression fittings (curved surfaces mating) or crush-seals (those washers that get mushed on tightening).
First off figure out which of the two sealing methods is failing. From your suggestion of using teflon, I presume it's a threaded member that has/had a crush washer. Replace it if it's damaged, or just retighten it. The crush washers are supposed to be tightened in 3 steps (it's in the books someplace). - Tighten a little. - Slack off and tighten some more. - Slack off and tighten again. Each has a torque spec, not that I have it handy. Be sure to use either a flare wrench or a box end on all hollow fastners, lest the force of tightening distort them. For the compression fittings (hose to receptical), use a wrench on receptical to keep it steady while you tighten the hose. Don't wind up like Andy on the vet's list. He just paid 500$ to have the oil cooler replaced on his 3.5 coupe because the threads got stripped on a threaded connection for the hose. That was from somebody in the past being over anxious on those fittings. They don't last forever, but when properly handled, they do what they're supposed to do (seal). -CTH |
#3
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CTH, The end of this leaking line is rounded, as is the mating surface on the oil pump fitting, so I'm guessing it's a compression fitting.
This fitting's been torqued as much as I can apply. Would adding a crush washer help my cause at all? I appreciate your advice. |
#4
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You can't put anything on that rounded surface. Take it apart and look for damage to the threads or the that rounded mating surface.
If the leaking fitting is on the radiator, it's brazed in place (and it's fragile). If it's on the engine somewhere, it's a hollow union, with threads on each end. Are you sure the leak isn't from the other end of the fitting? BTW, The reason the fitting is separate like that, is because it's steel and the thing it's attached to is Aluminum or an alloy. You can overtighten it in the casting and cause a crack. Try not to do that. I'd say your next step is to take a second look at that fitting. -CTH |
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