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  #16  
Old 05-25-2004, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by autozen
Chuck gave you an excellent list of things to check for over heating, however, the bucking and snorting may or may not be mechanical. It is possible that the underhood temp is going extremely high, because of the high engine temps. I suspect the points or the ignition module. Try cleaning the points with the folded end of a clean piece of paper. These first transistorized ignitions had very little current flow through the points, and it didn't take much to make them fail. I woildn't suspect the mechanical injection to be affected by heat. I've made my 230SL into a route 66 Corvette and have driven it all through the mountains at high altitudes in over 100 deg weather without incident. The only time I had trouble is when I shut it down at 4000 ft in extreme heat to enjoy a view. When I tried to leave the, car was vapor locked and wouldn't start. The nearest town was an hour away on mountain roads and had no phones or electricity. I simply soaked a wash cloth in the cooler ice water and laid it on the injection lines. After about a minute it fired right up....

Peter
Sometimes a clogged fuel filter will make the engine buck. Of course that doesn't solve your over heating problem but may be worth looking into especially if it has been a while for the filter.
my 2c

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  #17  
Old 05-25-2004, 08:52 PM
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The visco fan clutch was shown in that early photo. The fan just bolts to it. You can't rebuild the thing or refill it. All you can do it throw it away if it's bad.

The older straight 6's had a solid fan that is a bolt up replacement. This is not an ideal solution, but it would be a simple enough way to test that the fan is the problem.

-CTH
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  #18  
Old 05-25-2004, 11:24 PM
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I have a brand new fan clutch if you want to buy it.. probably for about half of what it would cost to buy from an online catalog.
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  #19  
Old 05-26-2004, 11:27 AM
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Hello,

How much do you want for the fan clutch?
I am in need for one. Do you think it will fit my 1972 280se 4.5?

Thank You.

cK
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  #20  
Old 05-26-2004, 12:15 PM
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CK: No, the 4.5's fan clutch is bigger, beefier, and about $300



CTH: Peter said you can fill this type with some kind of Toyota silicone grease?
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  #21  
Old 05-26-2004, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mbz72

How much do you want for the fan clutch?
I am in need for one. Do you think it will fit my 1972 280se 4.5?
It's not the same part mainly because yours is a v8.
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  #22  
Old 05-26-2004, 12:43 PM
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Thank You,

cK
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  #23  
Old 05-26-2004, 06:10 PM
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> CTH: Peter said you can fill this type with some kind of Toyota silicone grease?

You could try. I'd like to see how. The benz service manuals say "discard it". -CTH
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  #24  
Old 05-26-2004, 07:41 PM
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CTH: People like myself can get VERY resourceful when faced with a decision: $300 part, or attempt to fix old one!
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  #25  
Old 05-26-2004, 11:36 PM
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Or remove the stock fan assembly, auxillary fan, and bracket. Replace w/ an aftermarket fan in pusher mode behind the grill. I used an Imperial zipped to the radiator. Washers should be added to the pulley bolts so that they don't strike the waterpump. An adjustable thermo-switch also made by Imperial controls the temperature to a steady 175 in the heat of Kansas summers. The reduction in rotating mass should be good for H.P. and mileage. The stock parts are in the basement for any resto- needs in the future. Total price $120 and some labor.
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  #26  
Old 05-27-2004, 01:15 PM
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Write-up on fan clutch repair

I'm going to try this (possibly today?) and maybe take pics and/or do a writeup. My temps are getting up there in the city without the aid of the fan, need to turn the aux fan on at times!

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