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  #1  
Old 06-22-2004, 06:13 AM
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Slip Joint Removal Tool

I'm Looking for a special tool, part number 109 589 00 33 00, to remove the slip joint from the left half of the rear axle. Does anyone have one to sell or loan?
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  #2  
Old 06-22-2004, 10:46 AM
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these guys may be of use, they seem to have a big online catalouge

http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm

as always, try the site sponsors first though!
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  #3  
Old 06-22-2004, 11:57 AM
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In the heyday of the W108s, 109s, 110s, and 113s, I changed out many of those joints and never used that tool. I think that tool was supposed to remove a stuck joint which I never ever experienced. You do need to remove the bolt in the end of the joint though. I wouldn't be as concerned about that tool as I would the other two special tools. You need the little cone tool that guides the diff into the hole in the trunk. More importantly you need the long tool to line up all the brass washers and rubbers to mate the swing axle. Be caefull to install the boot correctly. The word " OBEN" should be on top.

Peter
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  #4  
Old 06-22-2004, 06:01 PM
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Thanks for the replies, however this is not a straight forward task. Long story short: Person "A" started a rebuild on the rear and never completed it. The slip joint was installed per the manual using red loctite. The rear is now with person"B" and I want him to verify the work done by person "A" and to replace the original spacer sleeve (crush washer) with a new one. The only way we can see removing the flex joint (with red loctite) is to have the special tool. I appreciate any first hand experiences with this. BTW Russ114, nice tool site.
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  #5  
Old 06-22-2004, 09:59 PM
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First of all there are only 2 places to apply loctite. You can put it on the splines if you are an idiot or you can put put it on the thread of the bolt that holds the sliding joint in place if you are still an idiot. There are no crush washers, but there may be a spacer ring. You are tasking my memory now.

Peter
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  #6  
Old 06-23-2004, 04:54 AM
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Peter wrote: "First of all there are only 2 places to apply loctite. You can put it on the splines if you are an idiot or you can put put it on the thread of the bolt that holds the sliding joint in place if you are still an idiot."

Peter, that is one reason the rear is with person "B" now, I want him to verify the work done by person "A".

Installation of Slip Joint (35-6) per the manual reads:

6. Coat keyway on slip joint about 10 mm with Omnifit Type 80 red M or Loctite "Typ Keilbefestigung 42"
7. Mount slip joint. For tightening torque refer to Job No. 35-0.
Note: As a further safeguard the clamping screw may also be bonded.

Maybe the tool is for the idiots who followed the manual.


Sorry for tasking your memory, hopefully some good things surfaced while you were remembering.
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  #7  
Old 06-23-2004, 11:25 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by 280SE Guy
[
Installation of Slip Joint (35-6) per the manual reads:

6. Coat keyway on slip joint about 10 mm with Omnifit Type 80 red M or Loctite "Typ Keilbefestigung 42"
7. Mount slip joint. For tightening torque refer to Job No. 35-0.
Note: As a further safeguard the clamping screw may also be bonded.

Maybe the tool is for the idiots who followed the manual.

The keyword here is KEYWAY. You do not locktite the sliding joint. I guess I left out the term "red" when I said not to use locktite on the bolt. There is a keyway in the joint makes the sliding part turn the splines. If you take the snap ring off the end, the sliding part will come out, but do it over a clean pan, because a bunch of little rollers will come out. If you think any got away, I believe there are 108 of them. I counted them once about a hundred years ago. Be sure to install a new boot and don't use a split boot, because they always leaked even when installed with the special crimping tool.
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  #8  
Old 06-23-2004, 11:37 AM
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Sorry to interrupt, good thread.

Autozen, do you have a business Auto Zentral Ltd. in the Fairfield area or is it just a cute play on words?

I work in the Fairfield area and could swing by with MB needs if you do.

Thanks,

Josh
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  #9  
Old 06-23-2004, 11:46 AM
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Josh,

That was the name of my business in Richmond. I'm semi retired now, but can probably help you out. I have all of my equipment, tools, MB microfiche, and MB library.
Peter
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  #10  
Old 06-23-2004, 11:48 AM
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Thanks Peter,

I'm good for now, but will file it in the brain.

Josh
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  #11  
Old 06-27-2004, 06:47 PM
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280SE,

Did you ever figure anything out yet? I must also caution you to be carefull about people who follow the manual as being idiots. We haven't heard back. What is your status.

Peter
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  #12  
Old 06-27-2004, 09:38 PM
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Peter,

Thanks for asking. I'm in process of fabricating a tool to remove the slip joint as it is no longer available from Mercedes. They did have a price for the tool at $195.00 though. I tied contacting http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm and they were very responsive to my inquiry. We passed a few emails back and forth and they did seem to have a solution but my fabrication was well under way by then. I should have the fabricated tool completed sometime this week and will post a picture for all of those interested in seeing the results.

You wrote earlier "The keyword here is KEYWAY. You do not locktite the sliding joint. I guess I left out the term "red" when I said not to use locktite on the bolt. There is a keyway in the joint makes the sliding part turn the splines. If you take the snap ring off the end, the sliding part will come out, but do it over a clean pan, because a bunch of little rollers will come out. If you think any got away, I believe there are 108 of them. I counted them once about a hundred years ago. Be sure to install a new boot and don't use a split boot, because they always leaked even when installed with the special crimping tool."

The sliding joint was not locktited, it was the other end of the slip joint that goes into the left side (drivers side) of the axle. I do have a new one piece boot to be installed at the proper time, although the original is still in good shape, I'll keep it as a spare.

Hoping you are having good memories,

280SE Guy
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  #13  
Old 06-28-2004, 10:43 AM
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There are several places where MB uses loctite. The steering wheel screw and bolts that secure the tailgate shocks on the wagons. The locktite can be melted by applying heat from a micro torch or a smoke wrench. If you have access to a smoke wrench, you could apply heat with a long flame right at the point the fastening bolt goes. Of course in this situation you will have to careful of a grease fire unless you flush the rear end.

Good choice to put on a new boot now. I just took a trip down memory lane and opened the MB shop service manual for the 108, 109, 111, and 113 series. As a reminder follow step # 8 under installation for job # 35-5 carefully. That section explains OBEN and the placement of the hose clamps. If you don't follow these directions, you will destroy the new boot while driving.

Good luck,
Peter
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  #14  
Old 07-10-2004, 11:47 AM
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Just finished with the improvised puller tool. Hoping this will get that sucker out.
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  #15  
Old 07-27-2004, 12:23 AM
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We haven't heard back. What's going on with the red loc tite?

Peter
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