Without having to disassemble the whole cluster? Mine are foggy and they probably only need a good cleaning from the inside. Is there a way to undo the glass from the front? If not, is there a way to get just the speedo out? Its the dirtiest.

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1970 280SE Coupe W111
Chassis Number: 111 024 12
Engine Number: 130 980 12
Exterior Color: 180 - Silver Grey Metallic
Interior Color: 243 - Leather Light Red
Transmission # 004470

Cannot help you but, I have noticed my auxiliary instruments (left side pod) in my '72 108 4.5 get a sorta chunky almost ashen kind of stuff inside the glass once in awhile -- actually, it's usually there. Ideas, suggestions, theories, solutions???

kpb

I dont' know about your model, but I think the speedo on my car got foggy inside because its not sealed, there is a knob for the trip odometer and I'm sure bad air is getting in there and causing the fogging. My Tach is super clear compared to the rest.

Same thing with the middle cluster, but the rheostat knob is the culprit.

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1970 280SE Coupe W111
Chassis Number: 111 024 12
Engine Number: 130 980 12
Exterior Color: 180 - Silver Grey Metallic
Interior Color: 243 - Leather Light Red
Transmission # 004470

I cleaned the glass on my 115. I had to go from the inside out though. I think yours is in general the same as mine.

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

Yep, gotta pull the cluster from the binacle. It's held in place with ribbed rubber strip, if the 111/SE Coupe is anything like the 114's. Some people push em out by reaching behind from underneath. Guages themselves are held in place with 7mm nuts. Removing them gives access to glass from inside.

Had the same problem with my 280/8 awhile ago. I've also heard of repainting guage needles with flourescent red/orange paint from model/hobby store using tiny little brush for excellent results.

Also, main guage needle center "hubcaps" have been known to come lose after their glue dries out after 20-30 yrs or so. Seen this happen on two 114's I've owned.

If the 111 cluster is similar enough to the 108 cluster you have to pull the unit. Once the cluster is out you disassemble all of the guages, using extra care with the temp guage as it is mechanical and you do not want to damage the capillary tube' Once you are down to the bare cluster you will find the glass is held in the pod with two large rings. Unscrew the rings and the glass will come out. Take note which way the glass is oriented as it is concave, clean and replace then reinstall the rings.

If they have never been removed, the rings might be very tight. Work slow and careful. Also take the time to shoot the back side of the cluster with fresh matte white pain and replace all of the instrument bulbs while you have the cluster apart.

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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Is this a weekend project? Or is it longer? Thanks for the tips.

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1970 280SE Coupe W111
Chassis Number: 111 024 12
Engine Number: 130 980 12
Exterior Color: 180 - Silver Grey Metallic
Interior Color: 243 - Leather Light Red
Transmission # 004470

More like an afternoon unless you break something or need a part, then it can stretch to weeks or months. It is a fun job, though.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe