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Old 04-01-2006, 06:08 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 34
Help with 300E dual rear brakes

OK, I've been reading the many postings on brakes, rear brakes and
drums, rotors, etc.....Now:

I removed the rear wheels on my '89 300E. Found reasonable pads (almost
80K on original pads, but want to change them. The book says 2mm MIN,
but that is a limit, and not really comfortable with that...) The drum/rotor
is within tolerance, so unless I damage it, I will reuse. I also want to
inspect the emergency shoes (my reason for tackling the job, as the E.B.
is fading, and not holding on inclines as well as it used to.)

I removed the 2 caliper bolts, and hung the caliper out of the way. Now for
the fun part!. I removed the socket/hex screw holding the drum/rotor
in captivity. Now, my drum/rotors have 7 holes, 5 thru for the wheel lug
bolts
, one countersunk for the holding screw, and a 7th which engages
a pin (probably mounted on the flange/axel.) After being in position for
almost 80K miles, the drum/rotor is frozen (or rusted) onto the axel flange.
I whomped it, gave several raps, but to no avail. A drop or thrice of PDQ
(Liquid Wrench) went onto the center hole (where the hub comes through)
and sparingly into each of the 5 lug holes, plus the pin and screw holes. Still
the blasted drum/rotor metal won't budge. I need to get this off as I want
to inspect (and will probably replace) the brake shoes inside, while I am
also doing the pad replacement.

((On a different make/model car, I also had drum brakes, and 7-hole drum,
but the 7th hole was tapped, and screwing a hi-grade bolt of proper size/
thread and torqueing would break the sticktion/rust loose...but I see no
way to do this on a Mercedes?))

So, the question is: How do I remove the drum/rotor without damaging
either it or putting strain on any of the hub/yoke/CV assembly ???


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BnObob (for the fallen flag railroad.)
Artic "Snow" White 1989 300E, 124.030
w/ M103 engine, and 106K orig miles.
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  #2  
Old 04-02-2006, 12:46 AM
Ali Al-Chalabi's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,837
Try a really large rubber mallet to prevent damaging the rotor. If everything is unbolted and the parking brake is fully released, then it is just rust holding it in place and they can get really stuck sometimes. It's just a matter of force and penetrating oil. As long as you don't damage the rotor, I don't think it will hurt anything.

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2001 CLK55
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