Silly (and Expensive) Tire Mystery - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Duncwarw · #31 02-02-2008, 06:25 PM

Thanks.

I had it aligned a month or so ago but the mechanic said a cam adjuster was frozen. I intend to sort that out. He got it close though and the car is way better than it was when we got it. The alignment was out quite a bit and you could tell by the old tires that was the case.

I'll check the bushings as you mention. I'm building a house soon and one day I'll build a garage to go with it. Bliss.

Is there anywhere I can look up what an Et36 16" rim was intended for?

ARINUTS · #32 02-02-2008, 06:56 PM

yup, I thought he had a 123 300d.

If thats the case then you don't have enough offset and the tires are rubbing the fenders / quarter panels.

narrower tires should do the trick.

Duncwarw · #33 02-02-2008, 07:06 PM

The 15s certainly look better.

We never heard any rubbing, but the evidence is quite clear.
Almost half of the "Firestone" lettering on the inner sidewall was rubbed off on the one month old 16s. I still can't get over the fact that myself and mechanics from two different tire shops couldn't find anything that could reach to the sidewalls to cause the damage.

Oh well, the lugs have been ordered and I should have them and new 15s all 'round by Wednesday.

babymog · #34 02-02-2008, 07:07 PM

I think my 190D Turbo had ET36 wheels.

Duncwarw · #35 02-02-2008, 07:19 PM

Thanks.

I don't want to sell them until I know what they're for as I have no desire to rip anybody off or possibly endanger anyone. A spare set of rims with new tires must be of value to someone.

babymog · #36 02-02-2008, 09:42 PM

The upper lug-bolt IS the stock '87 300D bolt for the stock 15-hole alloy wheel. Also fits the stock 190 with the 15-hole wheels.

I say this simply because they are the lug-bolts on both of my '87 300D cars, my '87 190D Turbo, and on my '91 300TE 4matic (bought new).

t walgamuth · #37 02-03-2008, 11:02 AM

Absolutely. Damage to the car or a wheel falling off is a real probability.

Tom W

t walgamuth · #38 02-03-2008, 11:04 AM

In the above picture, you could use the middle lug on a wheel designed for the one on the left if you could get it tight, which I doubt.

You could use the one on the left in a wheel designed for the middle one but it will look silly, but would be safe.

The one on the far right is for steelies or the rare aluminum wheels which are used with the wheel covers.

Tom W

t walgamuth · #39 02-03-2008, 01:44 PM

Yes, I stand corrected. I should have looked closer.

What is the middle one from?

Tom W

Duncwarw · #40 02-03-2008, 02:08 PM

So mine are different again?
In my case, the long shafted ones don't have as much thread length as the shorter ones.

See my pic compared to the one posed with the three by MTUpower.
The middle one in that pic looks like my "correct" ones but seem to have the reverse situation ie; the long bolts have longer thread end.

BTW, this is what I ordered: 957Lug Bolt 12x1.50 Ball Seat 39mm Shank Mercedes

If I'm wrong, somebody please tell me as they're supposed to ship tomorrow morning. Thanks.

t walgamuth · #41 02-03-2008, 07:37 PM

The way to tell if your lug bolts are correct is to put them into the wheel and measure the amount sticking through. The standard for bolts and nuts is that if the same material the length of the threads will equal or be longer than the diameter of the bolt.

If the materials are different such as a steel bolt threading into aluminum, the threads will be about 2.5 to 3 times as long as the diameter because of the weaker female threaded material.

So in this case the threaded bolt sticking through the wheel will be at least 1/2".

Too long may hit something on the other side of the hub, too short will strip out the threads and you will lose a wheel.

Good luck.

Tom W

Duncwarw · #42 02-03-2008, 08:11 PM

Good explanation, I think we've got the right ones coming.

Thanks much.

Paul