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  #1  
Old 08-04-2009, 06:57 AM
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Refinishing wheels

Any suggestions on refinishing 1982 380sl wheels. They have been painted at least once. Are these steel or alloy? Are they originally painted, or perhaps powder coated?

Thanks.

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  #2  
Old 08-04-2009, 10:29 AM
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If they are bundts, they were painted. Search the forum; lots of info there.
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2009, 10:22 PM
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Alloy wheels were extremely common on high-end European cars in the '80s, as on the '82 380SL (standard for NA).
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:31 PM
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Yep, most all had alloy bundts. Not sure about the SL.

So, Mobenz, what do you have?
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:57 PM
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Wow, that anisamy1 guy and his posts sure disappeared in a hurry.
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Old 08-19-2009, 02:05 PM
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wheel

I too have the same question:

I have a 1985 300D with Bunts and a 1986 300SDL (as seen in my signature) not sure what you call these wheels.

I did not know how bad my wheels looked till I looked at the factory fresh spare. Is there a way to do these on a budget or just save for a professional job?
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  #7  
Old 08-19-2009, 02:23 PM
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A bunch of elbow grease to clean up/prepare for painting, the folks at http://griotsgarage.com have paint and sealer.
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  #8  
Old 08-19-2009, 04:10 PM
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Try the thread called First Class Wheel Refinishing. Lots of specific info there.

Guys - need some help. How do you leave a link here to First Class Wheel Refinishing? Could not figure it out.
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:16 AM
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Here Ya Go

copy the header bar and paste it:

First class wheel refinishing
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  #10  
Old 08-20-2009, 09:12 AM
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Compress - man, that's so easy. Could not figure it out.

Thanks
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  #11  
Old 09-01-2009, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hip001 View Post
I too have the same question:

I have a 1985 300D with Bunts and a 1986 300SDL (as seen in my signature) not sure what you call these wheels.

I did not know how bad my wheels looked till I looked at the factory fresh spare. Is there a way to do these on a budget or just save for a professional job?
Depends on if you would be satisfied with a DIY effort, or want show-car results.
I just did a quickie-refinish on a spare set of Bundt-rims for my '82 240D. I acquired these rims a few years ago and three of them had the original paint either badly faded or stripped to the point where the surface looked like blotchy white primer. Otherwise, they looked pretty clean.
So yesterday afternoon, I got four Michelins mounted at Sam's Club.

Today, I used Fantastic cleaner to remove any remaining traces of oil, gunk, brake-dust residue, etc...
Then I masked off the new Michelins with duct tape (after trying blue painters tape that wouldn't stick to the tires) I also placed some bits of junk-mail and folded newspaper to protect parts of the tire outside the duct-tape. A small bit of copper tubing masked (mostly) the valve-stems.

I used 'Dupli-Color ENGINE ENAMEL with CERAMIC' - $5.69for 12 oz at Pep-Boys.
Back of can states "Our exclusive ceramic formulation increases heat dispersion... Withstands intermittent temperatures up to 500F. Oil and gas resistant".
Reads 'DE1650 CAST COAT ALUMINUM" on product label at bottom-rear of can.
I sprayed with the wheels laying flat on the brick planter in the front yard, in the sun to help dry the new paint.

Finish looks just like the wheel-paint I've used before, with a nice semi-gloss muted aluminum color, like that seen on many factory silver-painted wheels, and other factory silver-painted items like old outboard motors. It's not a bright, gaudy look like most common silver spray-paints.

The fourth rim I cleaned, but decided not to repaint for now, as the original silver finish was intact, with some shine and a slight patina. So I'll have something to compare with my respray job.

I took all the rusty lug-bolts, power wire-brushed the heads, painted those heads with the same Dupli-Color, baked them in the toaster-oven at 425F for a few minutes, allowed them to cool and installed the wheels.
One of my refinished rims got a paint-run, so I had to redo one spot, but I can live with it.

Finally, I repainted the plastic center-caps. The first coat didn't cover well where some of the original paint had flaked, but a second coating worked out much better.

I didn't try to clean up or refinish the backside of the wheels, and I'm not planning a sealer or clear-coat at this time, but my 240D is a driver, not a show-car.

Total cost, with the duct-tape was $8.38 + tax - not including the $6.29 roll of blue painter's tape that wouldn't stick, or the bit of Fantastic cleaner I used.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 09-01-2009 at 01:12 AM.
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