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#16
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If you have a factory service manual (FSM) you can see loads of wheel and tyre information in chapters 40-100, 40-102, 40-104.
For example, skinny 15" rims (5 1/2J) were also fitted to W123s when delivered with a slightly higher suspension for countries with poor road surfaces (Chassis numbers 123.02, 123.03, 123.04, 123.1 and 123.2) and for the stretch limo versions of the W123 (Chassis numbers 123.028, 123.125 and 123.132) but I think most of these vehicles were fitted with steel 15" rims. As for 15" Bundts you'll find that they were fitted to 107, 116, and 126 models with a 7J X 15 H2 25mm offset. Part number 126 400 22 02 - but there were probably more versions of the 15" Bundts (I only have a W123 FSM)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#17
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As far as I know, the 15"bundts were supplied from the factory only on 70's V-8 sedans like the 6.9. V-8 107's and V-8 126's came stock with 14 x 6.5" Bundts, at least in the US. But who knows what someone could order as an option.
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86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#18
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There are also aftermarket versions of the 15" Bundts made by Centra, Intra, Ronal, ATS and ARC-Alurad. Among these aftermarket units, ARC and ATS look almost identical to the original Fuchs MB 15" Bundts.
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#19
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I'd recommend having the tire side of the rims sprayed with several coats of an epoxy type paint from bead to bead. In fact, I'd do that on any cast wheel. It would resolve any possible issue of porosity. The exterior can be finished or left raw, whatever you like.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#20
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I was thinking about powder coating my wheels. How do you think powder coat compares with epoxy paint?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#21
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When the tires are mounted....its not even subject to the elements. Epoxy paints are some of the most durable ones out there. Actually overkill for this application....but if you have a compressor and spray gun or access to them....its cheaper and better to buy a pint of it than it is to get a few rattle cans of cheap garbage.
What you are doing is sealing small or microscopic pores that might be in the castings.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
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