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#1
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New Wheels...New Noise. Lug Bolts? W124 Experts?
I finally got a chance to put the new wheels on the '87 300D that have been sitting in storage for months.
I would say I'm pleased with the way they turned out except now I'm getting a clacking noise somewhat akin to a sound like when kids used playing cards to make noise in their bicycle spokes, only more metallic. The wheels themselves aren't contacting anything. The vendor provided lug bolts that they said were the correct ones for this model and I put them side by side with the old ones and they were, indeed, shorter. But, now I'm wondering if they are still too long. I read about the trick to measure what sticks out through the wheel (after the fact, so I plan on doing that tomorrow) but my question is if they are too long, is it possible that they are contacting something? (the noise seems to be coming from the rear.) Oddly enough, it only happens when the car is moving forward. It makes no noise when reversing.
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-Louis '87 300D Anthracite |
#2
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Don't know details of your model but I understand MB wheels are hub centered and bolt centered wheels may not fit properly. Were the wheels snug to the hub?
PS: I do like the look!
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Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html |
#3
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Thanks! I chose these because I felt they enhanced the look of the car without looking blingy.
These fit snugly on the hub centers and the bolts FELT like they clamped down on the rims properly. The wheels LOOK tight against the hubs. They don't make a clunking noise. They make a clack-clack-clack noise as they rotate...but only going forward. That's what made me wonder if maybe the bolt ends were contacting something like e-brake components as they passed by. I dunno. I guess I get to pull them off again and check lengths.
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-Louis '87 300D Anthracite |
#4
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I would check to be sure they are all good and tight and there is not a rock inside the little hub area under the hub cap.
I'd also check to see how much bolt sticks out the back of the wheel and compare that distance to the stock wheels and lugs. Too long and it can be a problem hitting internal parts, too short and they can break or strip the threads out.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#5
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It's the rear. The length of the shank that comes out of the wheel should be no more than 12mm, I think... If you jack up the car on the diff with the e-brake off, and try to spin the wheel in reverse, you will get a clicking noise. Are your bolts 1.5x12 or 14? I have some extra shorter bolts lying around if they're the right size.
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1992 300CE BilsteinSport Vogtland Borla EuroLampsAllAround 3pc18" Staggered BRABUS Monoblock IVs http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...MG00656Sig.jpg FS/FT: 17" OEM 6-Spoke Wheels FS/FT: 16" Lorinser RS-90s FS: W211 Steering Wheel |
#6
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Quote:
http://www.ezaccessory.com/Wheel_Spinners_s/148.htm
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96 E300d |
#7
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Depending on the offset the lug bolts may be too long.
Good time to point out: IF YOU SWAP RIMS YOU MAY NEED DIFFERENT LUG BOLTS.
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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59 |
#8
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Attached is a scan comparing the two different lug bolts (12x1.5). The new ones that came from the vendor are about 1/2" shorter than the originals (or 26mm compared to 40mm approx.), but apparently still too long. I didn't get a chance to do a through-the-wheel measurement yesterday. Hopefully I'll be able to do that today.
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-Louis '87 300D Anthracite |
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