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  #1  
Old 07-01-2002, 09:50 PM
NoDubs
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wheel lock recommendations

Just got my monoblocks in and I need a recommendation for an obscure/really good set of wheel locks. Anything common is worthless around here, they get through those in seconds. So... any input? I was thinking of maybe doing 2 sets of different locks per wheel. Yeah... it's that bad.

Shane

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  #2  
Old 07-01-2002, 10:52 PM
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I have seen some that have small V grooves in the side of a bolt that are quite good. You can get them from www.goodroadsauto.com you may have to call them thoug. There also is a kind called "euro locks" search for them hear i know someone posted a link.

I have the crapy worm looking locks, I dont realy like them the key is very easy to break and they could be stolen easly, with one of those gator wrench things. So I am goinf to get some form good roads soon.

Subman
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  #3  
Old 07-02-2002, 12:28 PM
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yal yal is offline
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Go to the bottom of the page of this link...

EuroLOCK

Eurolocks use a key.
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  #4  
Old 07-02-2002, 03:56 PM
NoDubs
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how do they work? and are they universal?
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2002, 04:25 PM
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yal yal is offline
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Description i found...

"The number one feature of the 'Eurolocks' are the two keys per set which fit onto your keychain as a regular key does. This way when you get a flat or need some work done on your vehicle the key is not at home, nor is it 'hidden' in the car when the thieves break in. Instead it is where it belongs - with you! The lock itself is composed of an inner plastic sleeve which clamps down on the head of the existing wheel lug (nut or bolt). This is protected by a polished aluminum outer shell set a bearing allowing it to spin freely - evading sockets hammered on or airchisels. Although no wheel lock can offer a 100% guarantee we feel the 'Eurolock' covers the bases better than any other wheellock on the market. Availabe for nearly every application in both 17mm and 19mm fitments. "
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  #6  
Old 07-17-2002, 04:51 AM
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Shane,

Have you tried the mercedes ones that you can order from the dealer? I think that they are pretty nice because they have chrome on the top and chrome is really hard to drill out if someone was trying to steal them.

Have your rims ever gotten stolen?

Austin
__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.
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  #7  
Old 07-17-2002, 08:03 PM
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A word of caution about those Eurolocks...

I've never used them myself but I did some research about them because I was interested in them too.

They are (were) OE for some Euro cars like BMW & VW in Europe. I went to several of those forums and the concensus was that they are not very good. There is a spring mechanism inside which the key will "lock" the plastic cap in place and this is prone to rust and failure.

Do your own research but there's a reason why this type of lock is not heavily marketed in North America.

Blue
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  #8  
Old 07-18-2002, 03:33 PM
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McGard makes wheel locks for MB applications and I have to say that I'm pretty impressed with the quality of the locks. In fact, if you buy wheel locks from an MB dealer, chances are that they will give you McGard locks since I believe they have an agreement.

The only way to get them off without a key is to hammer a socket onto them, which would take a considerable amout of time and make a great deal of noise.

Here's a linky to their site:

linky linky
__________________
'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY!
'93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights
'87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes
'70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights
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  #9  
Old 07-18-2002, 09:27 PM
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Mcgard locks

THe mercedes locks that I got from the dealer look a lot a like compaired to the mcgard locks.

Make sure that with mercedes wheels you get the radius seat. Some aftermarked wheels have the other type.

If you get them at the mercedes dealer, you can get them with longer shanks, etc by telling them what wheels you have. For instance, if you say you have CLK wheels they give you the locking lug bolts just like the length and size of the ones on the 300Es and stuff. If you tell them you have AMG wheels, you get the lock bolt that is the same length of thread til the radius but the shank is longer.

I'd just get them from the dealer. I bet if you got Mcgard direct they are a lot cheaper.

Austin
__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.
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  #10  
Old 07-18-2002, 09:52 PM
Senior Canadian Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 827
Austin brings up a VERY good point that slipped my mind: whenever you get replacement bolts fr Mercedes OEM rims (this includes the aftermarket rims that are exclusive to MB) MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CORRECT BOLTS. The bearing surface on MB rims and bolts are radiused...many replica MB rims do NOT have radiused bearing surfaces and mixing te bolts can severely damage the rims.

It can also be unsafe.
__________________
'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY!
'93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights
'87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes
'70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights
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  #11  
Old 07-18-2002, 10:09 PM
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The Mcgard locks are not as great as they may seem to be. Belive me I have learned the hard way.

My sisters 95 E320 had a flat on it and I needed to change it for her. I got the wheel locks out and started to take the wheel off. I put the key on and then steped on the wrench to losen the bolt corret?
Wrong, when I steped on the wrench the key got twisted in the lock and runined the key. So there I was straned with a wheel I could not get off. I had to fix the flat, then take the key home and modify it and finaly I got the locks off, now there are no locks on that car.
1. The key on the locks are very weak and can be bent when turning them, so make sure they are on flush and even have someone else push on the wrench while you turn it so the key does not get bent.
2. The locks can be taken (stolen wheels) quiet easly with one of those gator wrenches. They are not that hard to steal
BTW the locks were orignal Mercedes.

I have a set of locks from Tire Rack, which are the Mcgard, but I dont not like them for the reasones above, I am going to get a set from goodroadsauto,. They have a set that are much better, the lock grabs on the side of a notched stud (the notches are very small, no socket would work on them) I believe that they are a much better design.

So anyone want to buy my locks?? LOL

Subman
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Look At My Website
-2002 C32
(E420 has passed away)
The best way to contat me is e-mail.

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  #12  
Old 07-19-2002, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Subman
The Mcgard locks are not as great as they may seem to be. Belive me I have learned the hard way.

My sisters 95 E320 had a flat on it and I needed to change it for her. I got the wheel locks out and started to take the wheel off. I put the key on and then steped on the wrench to losen the bolt corret?
Actually, what you SHOULD have learned is:

1) The locks, because of the design, should be the first off and last on the wheel.
2) the locks, because of their design, cannot and should not ever be torqued down as much as the regular bolts,
3) The regular bolts should be torqued down to mfg spec (~ 8-88lbs.ft NO MORE)
4) In keeping with #3, never EVER use or allow someont to use and impact gun to tighten your wheelbolts.
and most importantly:
5) NEVER step on the wrnech to take off a bolt, ESPECIALLY if the angular force is offset.

That being said, I've reefed the locks on my car on REALLY tight before, but I've ALWAYS been able to get them off without issue.

In plain english, there was nothing wrong with the system. The error was in the way you applied force to the key/lock ie. stepping on the wrench.

Normally, when you have a wrench and a bolt, it's a two piece system and there is a certain amount of play in that system as well as a certain amount of angular force. When you introduce a key, you add a piece and in so doing increase both the play and the angular force that gets applied in the vertical plane...which is why is it so important to use BOTH HANDS to install and remove one of these locks. one hand should be at the end of the wrench and the other should be positioned at where the wrench bends to SUPPORT that end of the wrench. Otherwise when it tries to slip off of the bolt (in this case key) head, your hand is preventing it.

By stepping on the wrench, you applied forces to the system that exceeded what the system was designed to take because the direction in which the force was applied was not correct. Why? because by stepping on the wrench, you could no longer control the wrench and how it imparted the forces onto the key and lock.

Ask any engineer and they'll tell you the same thing.

As an example, you know how it is possible to stand on an empty soda can? It works because if you stand on it correctly, all of the forces imparted on the can by you (ie your weight) are acting in the vertical plane, but as soon as you lean to the side, you are introducing a HORIZONTAL component to the force equation; a component that the can was designed to take very little of. Why do you think cans are stacked right side up instead on of their sides?

The bottom line is, you tried to take the locks of in an incorrect manner and THAT resulted in a damaged key...not a flawed design.

As far as the McGards being easier to circumvent...what would happen if you had some spiffy lock/key set that you could NEVER open without the key, and you lost the key? Wait for 4-6 weeks while tyou order a new key? and that's IF you kept the little pice of paper with the key code on it?

McGards aren't the be all and the end all, but they certainly do a good job of stopping the opportunistic thief. Just like an alarmed car vs. a non-alarmed car.

Here's another little tidbit. if McGards really are THAT bad, do you think MB would sell them as their own wheel locks?

Besides, if you are THAT concerned about them getting stolen, put two different locks on each wheel.
__________________
'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY!
'93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights
'87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes
'70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights
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  #13  
Old 07-19-2002, 11:37 AM
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Posts: 447
I am not saying that I was not at fault, in fact I made a stupid mistake.
The car is not mine so I did not know how tight the bolts were, when I tried to take the lock off by hand it did not move, I dont know how tight they were because it was not my car.
You car correct, the design is not that bad, if the key had a slightly longer collar then my problem would not have happened.
So just be careful with these types of locks.
BTW I have a set on my car now and they are performing great, I am the only one that touches them so i know they are at the correct torque setting.
I am just trying to look out for the other forum members here, and with my personal experience I will get a different brand of locks next time (that is if they have a better design).
At the moment I am not that concerned about theft, wheel locks are only a deterrent and not a 100% guarantee, if someone really wants my wheels they will get them. I will keep my locks until I get around to ordering a new set.

Man I felt so stupid when I broke the key, in fact it is quite embarrassing to tell the story now.

Just dont make the same mistake I did.

Subman
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Factory trained Mercedes-Benz Technician
Look At My Website
-2002 C32
(E420 has passed away)
The best way to contat me is e-mail.

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  #14  
Old 07-19-2002, 04:09 PM
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I usually always torque my own wheels. If I want to go fast and take turns fast I usually do 90 ftlbs, but usually I never excede 80 on a lock. I think that 90 ft lbs seems better to me, even though 80 is more than enough. With bolts you dont need as much torque to hold them on compaired to lug nuts.

I use my breaker bar to loosen the bolts until they are 1/2 turn out, then I use my impact gun. i even use my impact gun on the locking bolt, but I do set it down a bit, and I dont let it impact, I just let it spin the bolt out, but I wouldn't recommend that to a normal person.

I like the mercedes locks. You could buy five sets of lock bolts. and torque them all to 80 ft lbs, but I feel sorry for you if you get a flat, then you have to fight with it maximizing your risk for getting killed along the side of the road.

I gave my AMG lock bolts to my brother, so now I have to buy some CLK lock bolts for my AMG wheels on my car, but Im still going to get mercedes ones.

Maybe you should always check your bolts before you leave the tire store so they arent overtightened. Maybe use some antisieze on the lock bolt. Eventhough there is a post about not using antisieze, most truckers use it.

Austin

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.
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