Help! I am currently trying to have a national company check my alloy rims for damage, as I have a vibration, and all parts have practically been replaced. One lug broke deep with no problem, but another broke before the centering device and now has to be removed! How?
In case you don't know (this is my first post), my car is a 1987 SDL Turbo Diesel, with stock 15x7" wheels.
An allied question is why are the lugs fitting so tight against the wheel and what can be done in the future to prevent same? Thank you for responding to my plight! Bob

is that you've been the victim of an incompetent tire changing person, who used an air wrench to drastically overtighten the lugs when he/she/it should have used a torque wrench. These lugs have plenty of reserve strength if they're tightened properly.

The remaining broken bolt will probably come out if it is drilled through the center and then backed out with an "easy-out" type device; sometimes a little heat helps, too.

If all else fails, there is a way to remove the wheel, but you don't want to do it (or even let someone else if they aren't really good!).

I assume you have solved this, but here goes anyway:

Remove brake hose or line from caliper after removing all the brake fluid from master cylinder (so you don't get a bath in it). Remove caliper bolts. Caliper won't come off yet, just leave it there.

Remove center cover on wheel, pry off dust cover for wheel bearing. Using a chisel, unscrew the retaining nut clamp screw, then unscrew nut. Pull hub, caliper, disc, and wheel off as a unit. Catch front bearing.

Bolt can be removed by drilling it out from behind with hub off car.

You will need a new dust cap, probably, and a new clamp screw for the bearing retainer. If the hole for the bolt was damaged, you need a new hub, too -- very likely it is warped, anyway.

Reinstall caliper, hub, wheel bearings, etc. Fill master cylinder and bleed brakes.

Get all new bolts. All wheels. The dip that grossly overtightenend that wheel did the others, too, and the bolts are all bent

Recover costs from tire dealer, they know better and are liable for damages, claims otherwise aside.

Last step, NEVER allow anyone to install tires on your car unless you can watch them and make SURE the actual tightening is done CORRECTLY with a TORQUE WRENCH. This does NOT mean run them down till the bolts won't turn with the air impact, then check that they are "at least" the correct torque! If they won't let you check on how they do it, find another tire shop!

Not only will they bend/twist the bolts, but they can warp or crack the wheels, too.

My indy mechanic had to do this for a local tire shop the other week, charged them $400 for the time. Customer was livid, to say the least.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!