W124 Wheel Updgrade Photos - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Benzwood · #46 06-26-2003, 02:09 PM

placo1, the parts CD doesn't show the length, but they are different part numbers.

Interestingly, the part number you posted is for a 1992 300E. So either the 300E and 500E are the same despite the numbers, or your dealer gave you the wrong parts(?)

1992 300E
Q B6 6 47 0105 (PARTS KIT) HUB CAP
A 124 400 04 70 .CLAMPING SCREW

1992 500E
Q B6 6 47 0101 (PARTS KIT) HUB CAP
A 124 400 07 70 .CLAMPING SCREW

Note that "Clamping screw" is a lug bolt, I think, from the picture and the fact that the default quantity is 20.

placo1 · #47 06-26-2003, 02:25 PM

Thank you for researching that, I need to get a 124 CD soon.

Before installing the new lug bolts I had a chance to compare the thread lengths as well as the hexagonal length against my existing lugs. The thread lengths were identical however the the hexagonal section was much shorter on the newer bolts vs the existing bolts. I confirmed with the dealer that these were the correct bolts for this application so unless they screwed up I should be safe.

The new wheels I installed definitely would not look right with the original lugs so it is possible the 300E part number is used as a replacement for the different wheels.

Here's a shot of the wheel:

placo1 · #48 06-26-2003, 02:32 PM

Sorry here's the image:

Benzwood · #49 06-26-2003, 02:43 PM

That makes sense... probably the original bolt heads were for deeper wheel holes, probably just cosmetic.

Nice looking wheels... that isn't the center cap that came with the kit, though, is it?

Did you paint your dust shield that's behind the rotor, or was yours always a nice even black?

BTW, the part numbers are on the Mercedes Electronic Parts Catalogue (meant only for dealers), not the 124 manual on CD.

placo1 · #50 06-26-2003, 03:01 PM

Good eye on the center cap........I didn't like the look of the orignal grey center cap so I purchased the chrome/grey version, looks much better IMO.

The dust shield is 100% original but it did require some serious cleaning to get it looking good. I used a boars hair detailing brush and Simple Green to clean it up. I followed up with Pig Spit to enhance the paint finish. Here's a thread of the before and afters and products used:

Detailed The Wheel Wells..........

I'm going to be installing Silver CAD Plated Rotors soon and I've sourced a OEM paint for the calipers. I should have the entire car restored by early next year if all goes right.

How did you get an electronic parts catalog and was it $$$?

Benzwood · #51 06-26-2003, 07:39 PM

Ooooh... very nice results in that other thread. I see your shield has some of the same goofy overspray and stuff that mine did, but not really visible in your installation at least from that angle.

What's the deal with the Griot's Undercarriage spray that you used? I looked on their site and still don't get it... whether it cleans or covers up. Griot's Undercarriage Spray

placo1 · #52 06-26-2003, 08:18 PM

Thanks.

I'm not sure why those paint markings are on the backing plate but I've seen them on several other 124's and have to assume it came that way from the factory. It definitely can be seen at certain angles on a sunny day but it doesn't bother me.

Griots Undercarriage is a mirracle product if used correctly (So is Pig Spit BTW) Griots doesn't clean and it doesn't turn black as many think. It is a clear high quality silicone that is blended with what seems to be alcohol. You need to first clean the undercarriage and remove 95% of the dirt and oil. The spray coats the surface and and does a good job staying in place. It dries to a hard shiny coating that helps keep the surface clean and also darkens painted and black surfaces. (Imagine applying pledge to dried out wood furniture) It also darkens areas coated with light surface dirt by darkening the dirt and blending it in.

Griots Undercarriage complaints: A bottle doesn't go very far and can get pretty expensive if you maintain the entire undercarriage.

I don't drive my car often so no big deal but I think it's important for anyone who does drive the car regularly. It's also very oily when you first apply and the car can't be driven for at least 12 hours after applying.

Benzwood · #53 06-29-2003, 09:58 PM

Finally got around to Wheel #2... the other rear wheel. Per a previous suggestion, I decided to bite the bullet and pull off the rotor this time. I read up on the procedure in Mercedes Benz E-Class Owner's Bible and it didn't sound too bad.

Here's the obligatory before photo...

Benzwood · #54 06-29-2003, 10:03 PM

Here's the caliper and rotor removed. I didn't realize the rotor included what I was calling the hub before... in retrospect it woulda been a lot easier to buy new rotors rather than refurbish the old ones.

The rotor was pretty difficult to remove. I had to whale on it with a rubber mallet from behind, through the hole in the dust shield where the caliper was, and continually rotating to a new spot, all while avoiding smacking the caliper or brake line.

I was just about to give up but a last ditch attempt with more muscle behind it, and sprooinngg.... off it came. Luckily without falling completely off. I'll put a towel underneath next time.

The good part about removing these parts is that it's a lot easier to work on them. The bad part is that it exposes even more rusty stuff to clean.

Benzwood · #55 06-29-2003, 10:05 PM

Close up of the hub w/o rotor... yikes! C'mon Mercedes, how about a little rust protection here.

Benzwood · #56 06-29-2003, 10:08 PM

Hub and dust shield cleaned up.

Benzwood · #57 06-29-2003, 10:10 PM

Rotor cleaned up... as you can imagine the reverse was pretty nasty.

Benzwood · #58 06-29-2003, 10:11 PM

Much easier to paint the dust shield with the parts off...

Note that the goofy markings on the dust shield came almost completely with brake cleaner fluid and wiping. The only stuff that remains is some silver misty overspray.

Unfortunately that also means that it probably wasn't a good idea to just paint over the markings on the first wheel, as they are not as durable as I thought.

placo1, if you want to get your markings off you might want to try 3M Brake Cleaner. It may have dulled the black a bit though.

Benzwood · #59 06-29-2003, 10:16 PM

Reattaching the rotor. I put a coating of anti-seize on the hub and all around the inside of the rotor to help prevent rusting and sticking. The MB Bible didn't say to do this, but I found other references to using it. I wasn't sure how much to put on, so I went conservative... I spread it all over with rubber gloves and then wiped it off with paper towels so only a very thin coating remained.

Anybody have a comment on using anti-seize for this application?

Benzwood · #60 06-29-2003, 10:21 PM

I cleaned the caliper bolts and rotor locking screw with acetone and a wire brush as best I could, and used Loctite Blue to reattach.

MB Bible said to use Loctite Blue on the caliper bolts, but didn't mention the rotor locking screw. However, it looked like there was some blue on that screw from before.

I didn't have a way to check the torque on the locking screw (hex head) so I just snugged it up pretty good.

I tried to use my torque wrench on the caliper bolts, but there wasn't enough room. So once again I just winged it, guessing based on the values in the book. Hopefully it's not too critical since they are Loctite'd as well. Any comments on how concerned I should be about proper torque on those?

All painted and reassembled...