W124 Wheel Updgrade Photos - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Benzwood · #61 06-29-2003, 10:25 PM

Unfortunately still not a quickie project! Probably about 5 hours for this wheel, including a run to get Loctite and other supplies. It would have been quicker except that exposing the extra areas was more stuff to clean.

I'm almost tempted to pull the other wheel rotor to clean it up and get some antiseize in there before it's permanently rusted on, and maybe strip and repaint the dust shield better. Key word being "almost".

And, alas, I scuffed the wheel in the process, badly enough to remove a chunk of clearcoat. Is there such a thing as clearcoat touchup paint?

Anyway, here's the glamour shot...

placo1 · #62 06-29-2003, 10:48 PM

Benzwood,

Looks fantastic, what did you end up using on the calipers again?

How many miles do you have on your car and how often do you drive? I'd be interested in hearing how well the paints you used hold up.

Keep up the amazing restoration.

Benzwood · #63 06-29-2003, 11:17 PM

Thanks!

I used DupliColor High Heat Ceramic. Black for the calipers and dust shield, Aluminum for the rotor.

I just noticed on that web page that they have a photo of a yellow brake caliper, so hopefully that's an indication that brake parts are a good application for these paints... I don't recall it being listed on the cans. The yellow must be their Engine Enamel (lower temp resistance, but apparently good enough).

My car is at 119K miles. It's a daily driver and we've taken it on a couple of abnormally long trips, so we've put about 32K miles on it since purchased 15 months ago.

Benzwood · #64 08-06-2003, 02:42 PM

The first rear wheel that I did without removing the rotor had been bugging me... so I decided to redo it before the rotor was rusted on permanently.

I used some penetrating lube this time which eased removal of the rotor quite a bit. Unfortunately it also ate my paint job so I ended up stripping everything and redoing it all from scratch! Ugh.

But as expected, this hub was as nasty as the other. So I was glad to get it cleaned up and some antisieze applied.

Benzwood · #65 08-06-2003, 02:45 PM

The rotor paint appeared to have been holding up fine prior to the PB eating it. Note that brake cleaner also eats it. However, normal non-acidic wheel cleaner seems to be ok.

In an effort to make it more durable, following the instructions on the back of the can I heat-cured it this time.... a couple hours at 400 degrees.

Mmm... what's cookin'.

Benzwood · #66 08-06-2003, 02:46 PM

Then, finally, on to the dreaded front wheels.

Benzwood · #67 08-06-2003, 02:49 PM

The bolts on the front calipers were TIGHT. Had to go with the low-tech impact wrench (open end wrench and rubber mallet) to loosen them.

Also, the rotors were worn, with a ridge around the outside, which made removal of the caliper more difficult. After puzzling for a bit, compressing it to open it a bit allowed me to slip it off.

Benzwood · #68 08-06-2003, 02:52 PM

Once the caliper was off, the front rotors came off very easily, unlike the rears. I was surprised.

By the fourth wheel, I finally figured out that the brake pads are trivial to remove one you have the caliper off. I removed them to facilitate cleaning and painting. Were I to do it again, I'd replace the rotors at the same time with less dusty versions, as suggested by a previous poster.

The front wheels in general were much more difficult to prep for painting. More intricate parts and much more caked on brake dust.

Benzwood · #69 08-06-2003, 02:53 PM

All cleaned up.

Benzwood · #70 08-06-2003, 02:54 PM

Not as much bang for the buck as the rear. The rear was a lot easier to do and more rust was showing beforehand.

But... here's the glamour shot.

Benzwood · #71 08-06-2003, 02:57 PM

Final thing bugging me was the cheesey chrome lug nuts. A little experimentation...

Clockwise from top:

- Mercedes OEM bolt (badly worn)
- Mercedes OEM bolt painted
- Chrome bolt painted
- Chrome bolt

The Mercedes OEM bolt looks nice in this front view, but it actually sticks out a bit too far from the wheel so you can see the seam where the cap meets the bolt. Perhaps another OEM bolt would be a little shorter.

Benzwood · #72 08-06-2003, 03:00 PM

On the chrome painted bolt, I painted just the top (as shown). After realizing you can see the sides when mounted, I decided to paint everything that's visible.

So I drilled 20 holes in a cardboard box, inserted bolts, and painted. Fast job without having to tape, and by painting from above there was only minimal overspray underneath on the ball mounting surface.

Benzwood · #73 08-06-2003, 03:04 PM

Here's a before and after of the chrome and painted bolts. I oven-cured them, though it remains to be seen how well they hold up to a wrench.

But at least they aren't screamin' chrome. In real life they now are basically not noticeable, they blend into the wheel. Overall a classier look than the chrome.

mark cummins · #74 08-06-2003, 03:23 PM

Nice Job On The Detail Work!
You might want to pick up a SOFT socket for the Lug Bolts
It will have a Soft Insert that wont harm the Lug bolts
I Bought them when I Had My Porsches..cause the Porsche Lug Nuts are Very soft! and The Edges scratch and Chip the Finish
Try Snap on or Griots they Have Them!

Benzwood · #75 08-06-2003, 03:49 PM

Thanks! Actually I was looking for a soft-socket after seeing a set on eBay... looks like

the same guy is still selling them. Here's a

recent auction where they sold for $34.00.

I checked Griot's back then to no avail, but I see they have a 3pc set now for $37.00. Maybe of higher quality given their reputation.

My previous web searches trying to find just a 17mm turned up nothing but sockets for Porsche which were the wrong size. Also, I just checked SnapOn.com now and couldn't find one there?