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Old 06-13-2002, 03:59 AM
tcane tcane is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: San Antone
Posts: 408
Jim:

Sorry to hear the cam broke - not a good indication of other parts not being damaged. If the timing chain just broke and flung around cracking the valve cover and a few bent valves then fixing your head or replacing it along with the chain and tensioner and guides may have put you back on the road.

But, breaking the cam takes a lot of energy and one or more of the rods could be bent along with probable damage to the piston crowns (need to look at them to know how bad). Even if the the pistons look like they come all the way to the top of the block there is still a chance of bent rod(s) especially if the piston crowns are damaged. Worst case, the crank could be damaged also. Let's hope not, but the only way to know is a TDI (tear down and inspection) because the only way to inspect the pistons, rods, crank, etc. is to remove the engine. The engine comes out as an assembly with the trans connected. The Haynes has very good info on how to R&R. I made a post a while back on making a chain sling to pull the engine/trans out at the 45 degree angle unless you have one of those slings that rotates like the M-B sling does.

If the lower end is OK and you need a replacement head then figure 93 pounds for the complete head (head, valves, springs, camshaft, cam towers/bearings, etc., but not the valve cover). Once the head is crated for shipping figure at least 100 pounds or a bit more. If the head can be rebuilt, cam costs about $150, cam bearing set $120, valves are $15 ea. intake $30 ea. exhaust, guides about $3 each, plus cost of any other parts damaged and then labor to replace the parts (magnaflux head for cracks, replace guides, grind valve seats, lap valves, etc.).

If the lower ends needs work, then you may want to balance how long you want to keep the car versus the cost to rebuild your engine and if that is too much then buying a used engine from salvage ($150 to $1,000 +) versus a rebuilt long block about $3,300 to $6,000 versus finding another turbo 300D with a good drive train and a bad body (like a rusted out body) for say $500 and up versus throwing in the towel and selling the entire car or parts off it.


A handy reference to get is the M-B catalog of illustrations. This book is the size of the owners manual, but about three times thicker. It has every part, assembly, component in exploded views with reference to the M-B parts micro fiche the dealers used to have. No other info that I've seen shows how the M-B is put together in this detail (engine, trans, body parts, chassis, electrical components, etc., etc.). I bought mine on eBay for about $20 (seen them go for as little as $16 and as high as $50 or a bit more). If you look for this book make sure you get the one covering your turbo engine (mine is for the non-turbo engine).

Tom
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1977 300D: 300,000+ miles

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