Stricktlymb:

What on earth have you been driving that makes you think a car that does 0-60 in ten second and goes 130 mph is too slow?

First, change the fuel filters and verify that you get good fuel movement in the clear pre-filter -- if not, check the tank screen for blockage. No fuel = no power, and it will still start and run!

If you don't get the typical turbo surge at 2000 rpm (believe me, this car rockets!) even at moderate throttle, you have something wrong, and messing about with the boost won't help, since you don't seem to have any. Besides, you already have 13.9 psi at factory settings -- any more will seriously impair engine longevity, or MB would have give the engine more to start with.

Here's the scoop -- you DO NOT have EDS -- the rack position sensor and actuator mostly control fuel "mixture" (read smoke) and idle, you cannot get more power by "chipping" it -- I would be shocked if such a chip existed, given the very few of these on the road. Ain't adjustable, don't try.

My information on the ALDA is that they rarely if ever go out, and they are a ***** to adjust anyway -- it has to be removed to get to the adjustment!

I will make the following guesses: You don't have turbo boost, probably none at all OR -- you still have a trap oxidizer on there and it is plugged. Do you have a "turbo" whistle -- high pitched squeal -- no smoke, no power, and VERY good milage, along with a large, ovaloid thing beside the engine on the passenger side? If so, you still have a trap oxidizer and it is PLUGGED -- the sound is the exhaust escaping from the seal in the pipe in front of the oxidizer. Hie thee hence to the closest DEALER and get it replaced, for free, with new turbo, most likely, at once. DO NOT TOUCH IT!!! If messed about with or removed, you void the warrenty and will be out the $2500 it will take to repair the turbo and buy the catalyst FROM YOUR POCKET. Dealer replacements are FREE.

If the trap has been replaced (insulated pipe instead of trap), check the following:

White plastic line from the center of the intake, next to the little switch, to the switchover on the firewall. Line must be connected and clear -- take it off and try to blow through it -- if you hear air coming out of the switchover, replace the switchover and you will have full power. Ditto for the line from the switchover to the ALDA -- and don't forget, the line also goes to the tranny transducer on the driver's fender -- if you have leaky lines there (or the transducer is bad), you vent off all the boost signal and won't get extra fuel.

If that is all OK, you will need to find a pressure gauge and install it in the boost line and check for boost -- you should get 13.9 psi at full throttle. If not, you need to check the turbo (wastegate and free rotation). If the wastegate actuator is stuck, you won't get any boost, and if the turbo wheel is slow or dragging, ditto.

YOu can check the turbo for free rotation by taking the air duct off the front and spinning it by hand, ENGINE OFF -- never take the duct off with the engine on, if you touch the compressor it will eat your finger (or hand!). If the compressor wheel has any axial play (goes in and out) you need a new cartridge. If it has "sticky" spots in rotation, you need new bearings, or a new cart. too.

This covers the main stuff. If you can tell me more about performance, especially in comparison to what you expect, the amount and color of any smoke, oil consumption, etc, I can help more.

These things are road rockets for diesel cars, I've never heard much complaint about lack of power, except maybe in comparison to a 6.9 or some such. It has almost as much poop as my 280 SE 4.5!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!