Great idea. Let us know how it works.

The concrete anchors will likely pull stronger than the bearing tool shown. You will also need a cylinder around the shaft to push against the housing. People often use sockets for that, or pipe nipples. But I don't see any place to push against unless you trim the rubber, or you might be planning to use a slide hammer. In my W123 cars, I recall the LCA (forged steel) extends past the bushing rubber.

The sheet-metal LCA in post 1 looks weaker than a W123's, but the W123 attaches to similar sheet metal brackets on the K-frame which is the weak point. Indeed, in my 1984, the bracket had cracked thru the bushing hole when I got it, the car having been stolen and crashed into a curb. I effected a weld repair w/ a backup steel strap. I expect that in rusty regions those sheet-metal parts fail.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans