Quote:
Originally posted by RLD
Before switching an old engine to synthetic, a good cleaning is a good idea.
Check out auto rx ( www.auto-rx.com ) the stuff is costy, but it really works.
|
I've had similar results with Seafoam, although admittedly I haven't taken an engine apart yet that I've used SeaFoam on (operative word: "yet"...my truck's engine's partially coming apart soon and I'll see the rearl results). You can get a can of Seafoam for about $6 at Napa Auto Parts. I add one pint into the oil a few hundred miles before I plan to change the oil.
With the truck, after treating the oil like this twice or three times, the oil would actually look clean after almost 3000 miles of use. I was shocked the first time I saw it as well, but it seems to really work. But, time will tell for sure when the engine comes apart (doing head gaskets and lifters)...hopefully within the week.
BTW, on the synthetic issue, I'm one of the people who's scared by the theory of seals swelling up with new oil and developing leaks where there were none before. This is the only thing stopping me from using synthetic in my engines, and I am already using synthetic in the Benz's differential and in the truck's tranny and transfer case (and when I do a differential oil change on the truck, or a tranny oil change on the car, I plan to go to synthetic). Synthetic's more refined than dino oil, and I also like the idea of not depending on petroleum oil resources any more than absolutely necessary (and am looking into a WVO conversion for the same reason). When I put my truck back together, the only seals/gaskets that won't be replaced will be the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket, so I may try synthetic in the truck and see how she does...