I don't use vegetable oil anymore. I make biodiesel. I did use soybean oil, and Elsbet is correct -- it's nasty stuff. I took apart the glow plug heater I made and praised, and it cooked the crap out of it.

I was just on Frybrid.com and saw pictures of a greasecar (coolant) heated tank taken apart, and the whole inside was coated with polymerized crap. I'm glad I don't use SVO anymore; that dirty nasty yucky stuff will never find it's way into my tank anymore.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

Twitchkitty: A glow plug is not ment for continuous use.
In my crusty, old 300SD: I'm leaning towards a RUG blend, larger alternator, 12V silicone pad heaters on the IP to nozzle lines, blending to weather conditions, an aux. 4 gallon WVO tank heated with engine coolent for 25 mile + trips and not using this vehicle in -10 weather.
RUG batch blender and viscometer is done. MB manual recomends max 30% RUG in diesel so I use a max 25% with VWO.
Heating pads with thermostat, are on order.
Removed the nonworking cruise control, moved a few goodies and 4 gallon tank is 1/2 done.
I've reduced my daily driving & the conversion will now repay itself in 3-5 years, so the 'need' is not as great and this has been moved back on the to do list.

There are glow plugs that are rated for continuous use. They are usually run at less voltage than they were originally designed to use.

After reading these reports of polymerization I think it would be best to prevent contact between the oil and the glow plug if that is possible. Any thoughts on using a glow plug to indirectly heat the oil?

This is another area where more is better doesn't fly. People who sell heaters make it sound like heat is the answer to every question about veg oil.

Even coolant heat can do this (from Frybrid http://www.frybrid.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5004 ):

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

That looks like a common problem using copper lines with SVO/WVO. When copper corrodes it turns green like that. USe Stainless or Aluminum like Frybrid.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Great thread. Read it all, really like those little faucet pumps.

My question is:

How do you know if you need/should have an extra pump?

Is there too much of a good thing with pumps?

I mean if I add a 30gph pump to my 240D might I damage the IP or something else if I leave the pump on and use regular Diesel?

I use WVO with kerosene, BioD, and regular Diesel, depending on what oil I have or don't have (boohoo). I have an FPHE and injector line heaters.

On WVO and 10% Kero (I'm in florida) the car runs fine when started, but takes a few extra cranks when cold and then coughs for a few seconds. After that, it is fine.

Ordered from where?
Part numbers?
Model numbers?
A little more info please.

danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination

I guess I do not understand why a little polymerization or caking in a GP heater is bad as long as it is before the fuel filter. I have taken my GP heater apart twice (it is mounted on the intake of my veg oil filter) and have found some black caking, but not enough to measurably block the t fitting, and I have never plugged a veg filter (I do change them about every 3-5 k miles). It is, of course, thermostat controlled. I would think that I would rather have heating residue there than residue in my engine from lack of heating.

I also read the nasty GC tank thread. It's nasty indeed, but not what caused the engine failure unless there was a coolant leak or bad heating. Both should be monitored closely. Any system can have a coolant leak. I will say that a coolant leak in my GC tank is my worst nightmare. Has not happened yet. I'd like to think that I would notice it before it screwed anything up too bad.

If running line heaters,make sure you pick a hot wire,thats only hot when in run posistion.Ran my new battery down,I was hooked into power seat.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Or better yet, wire it to a switch!!!

Yes its has a switch but I left it on.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Or better yet, use coolant heat.

Thirty years of using used cooking oil and still going.

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Ron Schroeder
'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY

I have coolant heat also,but I like my fuel to reach 190-220f.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

another pump that is happy deadheading is the AC Delco EP12. I used mine to pump out my basement when we had an unexpected flood in 97, and it still pumps fuel fine, I used it last summer. The Napa sold carter-federal-mogul is not any good, if it runs dry at all (like when I am trying to start a car that has been sitting 6 months) the winding burns out. There is a brand that starts with an "A" (I can't remember) that other auto supplies substitute for the EP12, I have one and it works fine on gas and is self priming when my carb is dry.

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'80 240D biege "Mercey Bird"
'80 240D light blue "Slug"
'80 300SD dark blue "Theodin"

Has anyone taken apart their HIH set up to see if there is any polymerization? Is there any reaction to aluminum? I am thinking about using an aluminum fuel line inside a rubber coolant hose from my WVO tank and pump in the rear to the switching valve up front.

All of this talk of polymerization has me concerned.

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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.