This is what I mean, I don’t believe any more what I read about the best way to utilize SVO I only believe what I see I have some stupid friends in Germany that have been running their MBZ on unheated SVO for more than 15 years and for thousands of miles and the cars still as good as the first time they pour the first gallon of SVO on the fuel tank I can’t understand why they are so stupid in not spending any money on heating the SVO they have been using for years with no problems. Of course I expect you won’t believe this but ask some old timers in Germany and find for yourself.
End of subject.

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2000 430 ML
2005 S500
87 300 D
61 300 restoring

The Neoteric link led me to plant drive. They have a single tank system. Is this a better option? Does the electric heating solve the problem? or is it just as bad as the Lovecraft system? Is the common thought, stay away from single tank conversion? or stay away from lovecraft?
In terms of filtering/de-watering I would say that I am quite thorough. The paper filter was quite clean after 6000 miles, when I changed it for the first time.

I wouldn't feel comfortable with a one-tank system (I am looking into the Elsbett conversion, but even this holy grail doesn't feel safe at this point), but I'm in New England. Some other folks with one-tank conversions might jump in...

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1974 240D, 125K mi, B100 now, SOLD
1980 300TD, 115K mi, 4-speed stick, roll-up windows, greasecar with two tank conversion (daily driver)
1985 300D, 220K miles, greasecar with two tank conversion, SOLD
1993 300D 2.5turbo, 158K miles, green/tan, B20-B50

That is why I am recommending cutting it with 10% diesel or preferably 10% RUG if his car likes it. Because of the SoCal's climate, cutting it should take care of the IP issue.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

A one tank system is safe ONLY if you live and travel an area that is always above 55 deg F. This includes the morning time when a lot of people start their cars to go to work. Part of the reason besides what is repeated on this fine thread is that you have no guarantee that you will always be putting canola oil in the tank. What if your restaurant source changes to a different oil that has a worse clouding point temp?
Not many parts of this country have mild-warm temp above 55 deg. all year around. Otherwise, you are taking a risk in the long run for sure. It is good that you are doing your homework! From what I've heard Lovecraft was slow to learn that the oil needs to be heated to 160-180 deg and I read a couple of accounts where they had inferior customer service. However, that was just one side of the story and there could have been miscommunication.
Cheers,
Frankie

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Frankie
It never ends!
1985 300D Turbo 181K Anthracite grey, "SOPHIA"
1984 300 SD Turbo(sold)
2004 Subaru Forester XT,Cayenne red.

I have no loyalty to lovecraft. And they have pissed me off a couple of times with their hippy attitude and inability to explain anything except by just saying it works, we say so... But the reality is this car has been running strong on this conversion. I am totally open to the thought that this conversion is crap. I am just wondering when is it going to stop working? what are we talking about here? what are the signs? It smokes less than when I got it and it accelerates more. My mechanic was quite impressed with how it drove and he works on countless of these (converted and not)

Well in general, running straight VO will clean out your fuel tank, lines and your IP. It is so good in cleaning it will also eat up your rubber fuel lines. But the clean lines may be the cause of why your car is running good. The issue here is the long term effect on cold starting with thick cold oil and you already heard of what can happen. You should monitor your injectors by taking them out and noting with pics of what they look like every few thousand miles. Then find a way to monitor your IP. That way to know for sure and report back to us bacause we like to know.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

First off, you need to ask your self some questions.
1) Do I like this car and want to keep it

2) Is this car going to work for me

3)How deep are my pockets


When you start to see the "signs"....it is too late. the damage has been done. It's a crap shoot at the very least.If you want to run WVO on a single tank, at the very least, cut it with 10% RUG. That will help save your IP. It will also be helpful to learn how to change the injectors yourself, that way you can save on that expense if needed

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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD
82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride

82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown
83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too
84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD
85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project

No. Not true at all. Do you know the temp you need to get VO up to so that it's viscosity is acceptable for our diesel engines? It's not 60 degrees.

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-justin

1987 300TD, 1987 300TD
2008 R32, 2000 Passat Wagon

yup. i know. i'm not talking about what i would like my cars to run like. i'm talking about what he will get away with if he adds the inline heater so it won't be running for long at 60 degrees, and cutting it with kerosene so that its viscosity is much lower than SVO. it's a jury-rig, that's for sure. but depending on how much he likes the car, and how much it matters to him how it runs etc. People have different standards. Some folks say: oh yeah, it starts right up, and it turns my stomach to see that all the smoke and cranking. i personally don't like it if i have to crank at all. my cars start without cranking at 10 degrees...
i don't know the lovecraft conversion at all. do they alter the glow plugs like Elsbett does? how much electric heat goes into everything before start up? or nothing at all?
how much can you trust all this hype out there around SVO conversions. every producer disses all others, they all think that they alone have the answer to everything. and in the end they are all pretty similar, at least in the two-tank world. and as i stated earlier, i don't have any experience with one-tank kits and would personally stay away from one...

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1974 240D, 125K mi, B100 now, SOLD
1980 300TD, 115K mi, 4-speed stick, roll-up windows, greasecar with two tank conversion (daily driver)
1985 300D, 220K miles, greasecar with two tank conversion, SOLD
1993 300D 2.5turbo, 158K miles, green/tan, B20-B50

Their kits involve adding a supposed "maintenance-free" filter, which I think includes a heating element. That's about it.

Yes once the car is running, the fuel will be heated, but you're still starting your car on cold VO.

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-justin

1987 300TD, 1987 300TD
2008 R32, 2000 Passat Wagon

I understood it's a modified Davco unit designed for Biodiesel filtration with a built in electric heater which works but still runs the car on cold oil until the heat exhanger is at full tilt.....8 minutes later.

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

The hassle of collecting and properly filtering WVO never has appealed to me, and I think that it will be harder to obtain WVO (at least for free) as more people start doing it. And while time will certainly tell if the various types of WVO conversions will hold up, I think there are a lot of factors that will determine how long a diesel engine will hold up being run on WVO, not just the temperature of the oil - things like driving styles, overall maintenance, condition of the engine before the conversion, and type/quality of the veggie oil. I'd be most concerned about people not filtering the WVO well.

It was nice to see that Mandy Moore bought an older Mercedes diesel....it's quite beautiful to see her standing proudly by her "new" car with a chipped grill no less, when she could easily afford a CDI, for example....just wish she hadn't gone with the Lovecraft conversion.

I suppose, in Lovecraft's defense, there are some good tips about caring for your Mercedes on his site, properly filtering the WVO and taking the time to answer questions on his web site. His prior business record and attitude would definitely keep me away though and I don't think he had put the thought into designing a good system as much as making a good profit, which he is apparently doing.

But as he did a conversion on Arnold's Hummer, "he'll be back" if there are problems....the Governator will make him pay!

BTW, what is a "biodiesel conversion?" I hear this all the time, but I was under the impression you don't have to change anything to run biodiesel. I'm running B20 and haven't changed anything except what probably needed to be changed anyway (fuel lines & primer pump).

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1976 240D "Katja"

One not so good testimonial was that LC took out the Benz spin on filter and replaced it with their own. Without telling the owner first. That would piss me off b/c that forces you to buy a LC filter which probably costs more.

I am also a detail oriented person so vague explanations don't cut it for me esp. if I'm spending $2,000 for a conversion. I am looking at plantdrive or Greasecar for my Benz but there are about a dozen companies out there.

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Frankie
It never ends!
1985 300D Turbo 181K Anthracite grey, "SOPHIA"
1984 300 SD Turbo(sold)
2004 Subaru Forester XT,Cayenne red.

Katja
Biodiesel "conversion" is not really a true conversion. It is simply changing all the rubber fuel hoses and rings to a viton or propylene hose material. The biodiesel "eats" away at rubber fuel hoses. Signs of you hoses going bad will be "SWEATING" hoses then hose leaking fuel. On B20 it might take months longer to notice sweating of rubber hoses.

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Frankie
It never ends!
1985 300D Turbo 181K Anthracite grey, "SOPHIA"
1984 300 SD Turbo(sold)
2004 Subaru Forester XT,Cayenne red.