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#151
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Quote:
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#152
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Of the oil you use, what's the average pH?
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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine) Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi! |
#153
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Problems I had with wvo
Hi,
Thought I would mention some of the problems I have overcome with with wvo over 150k miles in my 240d . The sd isn't converted. Funolas comments on the type of operator and individual inclinations are key. 1-I live in California and sometimes cold start on oil before switching back (2tank). I have ruined four glow plugs this way. Usually one will open up right after the cold oil start. 2-had a pinging problem that I traced to injectors, extensive post here on that. Turned out to be clogged pilot holes on my injectors. Those are the very tiny holes on the pintle tips. I ultrasonically cleaned every year but finally changed to Monark injectors w/o the holes and the problem went away. In that way I see Monark being better for wvo. Btw the car does stnk more on diesel now with said injectors. 3-air bubbles in lines, clogged filters causing stalls on highway and poor judgement using foul oil. All typical problems overcome by experience. Wvo is a skill you need to learn the pitfalls by doing. 4-line leaks. It is amazing how much engineering goes into keeping hoses and wires from rubbing through on the body during vibration. Many leaks over 6 years of running wvo from a hose just resting on the body and vibrating. Leak=air bubble =stall. You get smart about guarding lines. 5-filters spinning off. Because I use a coiled tube heat exchanger on my filter it sometimes works the filter loose. Then I get the dreaded air bubble. Why doesn't it work tight? It depends on the driver and more importantly the wrench. It can be big trouble. Will it trash your engine? Dunno. That is why I use my 240d. I did destroy my Rabbit in a wvo glow plug heater fire. Scary how these devices are getting popular on eBay now. Those thermal switches wear out people and if they stick on your car will have a full on glow plug dipped in wvo. I would still be driving my rabbit (good thing it burned) if it didn't burn up. For another thread. I stll think you shouldn't do wvo to a car you cannot write off. I probably will never do the sd.
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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD) 82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD) 82 300SD 300k miles 85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles Last edited by ykobayashi; 11-12-2010 at 10:00 AM. |
#154
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benzhacker has the definitive post on this thread. I haven't torn down an engine, but I have successfully run a 1983 300 SD for 5 winters and summers in VT with little or no trouble on WVO. I have a heat exchanger, inline heated filter, and separate system with solenoid switchover. I run 75 miles a day on my commute have gone on several long trips with no breakdowns. The engine has less ping on WVO, shifts gears more smoothly, but slightly less acceleration. Would do it all over again.
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#155
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Do you sell diesel for a living, or what?
Quote:
Jeeze, what a long winded tirade of quackery. None of that anecdotal slop actually proves anything. Thanks for the illogical gibberish... and from an "engineer". Like the man said... 100,000 WVO miles under your belt... then you'll have some knowledge instead of of just blabbery opinion. As for me, only a few tens of thousands on WVO so far, so the jury is still out. But so far no coking and she runs like a top. Gee, so sorry she wasn't intended for it... like I care! |
#156
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oil filter
This thread is interesting, it seems like some people will only use Dyno diesel on their cars and some other fuel will destroy you car to pieces, and some other people like the idea of WVO,
I will consider myself more in the group that use WVO, although I think it puts more wear on the engine It may be paid off after some time, I think it is also more like a hobby and you get to spend more time dealing with the oil collection and filtering process, It is far more interesting than just filling up your car with diesel. In the other hand I get to the WVO by a friend, and I find it very interesting, I think there are lots of mis information around and the whole deal of heating the oil over and over kind of defeats the idea of saving energy, I found that filtering the oil cold help to separate the fat or lard more easily, I use a home made 7500rpm computer hard drive/cooking pan centrifuge that catch up the lard and lets the oil pas trough, many of the problems with the WVO are in fact related to clog filters smoke, coking, and things around the lard itself and not the only the oil as fuel. So far the car has run with at least 50 WVO in th tank for more than a year without any significant problem. |
#157
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Burning Grease (WVO)
I just celebrated 3 years burning WVO, and saved on average $1,800 per year, and that is about what my car cost. So, if the engine blows up tonight, I have lost nothing. Although my entire experience is nothing more than antedotal, I can tell you running a centrifuge to clean the oil is a must -- beats 1 nominal micron bags any day of the week. Also, running Elsbett Technology. Also, heat exchanger, auxillary fuel pump, and running a 2nd tank and making sure you purge the system. Starting on No.2 and ending on No.2 seems to work. Not sure I can really identify any damage to my car. Having said that, I pull the injectors and glow plugs about every 3-4 months to look for a build up of junk. None. So, even adding all the costs of a centrifuge, Elsbett Parts, et cet., I am still ahead. I would rather prematurely blow up an engine every 5 years to avoid buying more than $100 or so of No.2. You can pick up a decent engine for about $500 to $700 at the junkyard and a long weekend putting in a new engine is a small price to pay for independence from the pump. So, the real question may be whether or not a premature engine failure is worth the $7K+ in fuel savings. For me, yes. I drive a 85 300D.
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#158
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Over 100K on WVO, unconverted
Is this thread from 2011 still alive?
I've logged over 100k on well filtered WVO, UNCONVERTED, and knock on weird, no significant problems. I start with decent oil not cooked to death, let it settle for weeks or months, pour the clear layer thru a 1 micron filter bag, add about a cup of gasoline to each 4.6 gallon cubie, pour it right in the tank, and drive. In freezing weather, i will up the gasoline (10% max), and/or mix in some kerosene, and if it is really cold, run mostly kerosene or diesel. If it below about 50 deg. F, i will plug in the block heater, and also i have a magnetic heater stuck to the fuel tank that i use in cold weather. I also try to let the car warm up before taking off, especially in colder weather. In cooler weather i also keep a cubie of WVO in the house behind the woodstove and pour it in just before driving. Every few tankfuls i add some ATF, or Power service additive. About 70,000 miles on the 1981 240D so far (it currently has a clutch problem, but i doubt that is related), and about 50,000 on my main 1985 300D. The 300D was getting a bit hard to start and smoking about 10,000 miles ago, so i cleaned the injectors, and soaked the rings for about a week in Marvel mystery oil, and now she runs great! I've run these cars on WVO from the get go, but the few times i've run diesel, i've noticed slightly more power. But i just drove the 240D 1400 miles at 70 - 75 m.p.h. mostly freeway, and 75 m.p.h. is fast enough for an old tortoise like me. If these cars, which between them cost about $2000, died tomorrow, they have paid for them selves several times over in fuel savings, not to mention environmental impact and and pissing off the fossil fuel industry. |
#159
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I will convert it to biodiesel, or when the apocalypse hits,burn wvo,wmo,and watf
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
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