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#1
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WWYD? Car w/$1000 Elsbett Kit installed for $900
Hi all.
I'd like to get in to SVO/WVO since I have a source. I'm a huge guy at 7'/350 so I'm pretty much sticking to S class. I have a pair of 83 SDs. I can get my hands on a 95 E300D with a single tank Elsbett kit for $900 - beat paint, nice interior. I'm not comfortable in it - it could never be a daily driver without moving the seat mounts. But even as a backup car, I have some concerns about frame damage. It's not really evident in this picture, but the front doors around the window frames are trying to "mush against" the rear frames, while the lower part of the doors lines up better. ![]() Also, it's really rough from a standing start - not sure if that's transmission, motor mounts, etc. When I went to take off the first time, I checked to see if the parking brake was on. Once I got it going and started driving it, it was smooth with plenty of power. So I'm pretty sure I'm not looking at it for a driver. I think I'm going to stick with SDs. So if I bought this, I could utilize the lines, pumps, warmers, etc, but wouldn't be able to take advantage of the glow plugs and injectors. So I'd have half a kit, and I'm not sure I can even get the other half piecemeal. So I'd have about $500 worth of kit, and probably could get that much again selling interior parts and whatever I could wrench off the engine (not equipped to remove it before scrapping the car). I'm thinking it's going to be a pass - what do y'all think? |
#2
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The rough running could easily be a symptom of fouling from running WVO. Unless you're prepared to invest a lot of time and effort into properly treating and filtering the WVO and tearing down the injectors and wearing out injection pumps, sticking with diesel is the way to go. You have to be very meticulous in your maintenance and occasionally run the car on diesel fuel or a diesel/WVO blend, otherwise WVO is a death-wish for the engine.
Given that you can only use few parts off the car in question, the unibody is potentially damaged from collision or rust, and you can't fit comfortably in it anyway, the whole thing seems like a big ol' "Pass".
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Current stable: 1995 E320 157K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 125K (SLoL) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) Gone and wanting to forget: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz] |
#3
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Yes I can see that.
Frankly I wasn't too impressed with his method of operation as described. He said he did it because his neighbor ran a restaurant and gave him the oil. He said "I let it sit for a couple days, and then there's a 10 micron filter under the hood". I'm still a neophyte to WVO, and more interested in a backup/grid down fuel, but I was shocked by that. Everything I've heard to date was more along the lines of "Let it sit for 6 months. and use a 1 micron filter before it even goes in the tank. I'm also aware running it comes with consequences. Note I said I had TWO 83 SDs - one to drive and one for parts - most notably the injection pump and injectors, and I won't necessarily stop at two. Conversely, if anyone within striking distance of Atlanta has an E300D with a ratty cream interior and wants to do SVO/WVO, I can hook you up. Also, curiously for a $900 car, it had super cold air. |
#4
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yeah - hard pass for sure.
not to dissuade you off MB's - but - if i was your size I'd go with an F250 or Excusion diesel. Ive seen those run really well on WVO for over 100k. those will also be more readily available in your area i believe.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#5
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Trucks I've got. I haven't owned a car in 20 years, and I'm quite enjoying it. I have a Dodge Ram, Chevy Tahoe, and a GMC van right now. Driving the S class, especially on the highway, is quite a treat. I went about 25 miles each way today to go to a place and almost missed my exit because it seemed to take a fraction of how long it normally takes.
Going back and forth to my country home is a 70 mile stretch of interstate. I'm looking forward to doing it at double the MPG of the Ram. |
#6
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Why not buy a greasecar two tank kit? Filtration can just be a sock filter. There are different ways to dry the oil, this looks interesting:
Oil Biodiesel Drying Tank - Dewater Your Vegetable Oil & Biodiesel Fast! - Utah Biodiesel Supply I use packed column filled with an NLA drying resin.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there? |
#7
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IF (big word in the WVO world) you can clean your WVO properly, and thin it a little, then you should have ZERO issues with a 2-tank system. From experience, WVO & 2-tank system is the best way to go if a person does a lot of long range driving, one shot each way and just switching over to #2 for in-and-around mileage plus start-ups and ends.
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#8
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On the original question, in your shoes I'd run away. The E300 OM606 is a far different engine than your OM617, and it sounds like this car has been REALLY abused. 126 SD cars with OM617 are usually cheaper than 123 300D cars, you can find decent examples for $2k or $3k.
Years ago when I looked into using biodiesel, the deal-killer for me was the time investment required - running the numbers, #2ULSD was way less expensive that processing bio. Using SVO or WVO, the hardest part was the iodine level in the oil. Particles can be filtered, water can be removed, and heating helps with the viscosity, and frequent cleaning or switching back to #2 can help with the polymerization (sp?). However, if your stock of WVO or SVO has too much iodine, I could not find a way to deal with that, and eventually it will kill the engine.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#9
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I had to step away from this for a bit - thanks for the replies. I let it go. I probably could have broke even with the WVO parts and seats and having the rolling chassis hauled away would probably get me $200. but I have too much to do to put 20, 30 hours into breaking even.
I went in a different direction. Seems I have 126 fever. I bought a pristine 560SEC. So needless to say, I've been busy... driving ![]() ![]() ![]() That's interesting about the iodine. I'll have to look in to that. I just got some new books today from **************. I'd definitely like to keep the SD running and enjoy it for years to come. So I'm taking it slow and not doing anything rash. |
#10
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Oh, yeah - I guess a forum sponsored by a parts company doesn't want other companies mentioned - fair enough.
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#11
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WVO conversion 1991 SDL
This system has the potential for a long life on WVO. The biggest variable is the quality of the fuel you produce. You can produce good quality fuel cheaply and slowly with the cold upflow method or quickly with a $1000 bowl centrifuge. The key word is "can". You "can" also produce harmful fuel by the same methods. The source of most of the problems that WVO systems have can be found behind the steering wheel...
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#12
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I saw one of those kits.I was not impressed.Heat exchanger to small,no electric heat to pre warm.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt |
#13
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I'm still studying, so I'm certainly not going to question anyone else, but the way I understand it is, the lack of heating is made up for in the specialized injectors.
Honestly, though - I think I'd add electric heat on my own, and use pump diesel in the winter, or at least a blend. One of the beauties of the kit is you're supposed to be able to just put whatever in the kit. I know two tank systems are preferred, especially in colder climates, of which I'm not in one, but I'm trying to work around it, even if that means it's not 100% WVO-powered |
#14
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U dont need to buy a kit... And u need a heated 2 tank system.
After u research study and completely understand the system you will come to find out you can buy all the parts to do it for like 300 bucks for a two tank less for a one tank
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