Which paint should I use?

[bennett]

I am replacing my fender and hood on my 81 240d with OEM form a donor car that has perfect gold paint. I need China Blue.
I am not going to prime as the substrate on the new parts is perfect. I will wet sand the original and prepare for paint.
I have always painted with acrylic enamel but thought this time I should go better on the benz since it is a keeper.
What kind of paint is the closest to MB paint?
I am thinking a single stage 1 Urethane with Hardener? What do you sugggest?









Oh and thanks in Advance to all suggestions
Bennett

[leathermang]

Do you have a paint booth with explosion proof exhaust fan and temperature and humidity control ?

I love Catalyzed Acrylic Enamel..... should harden fast enough to sand in four to six hours.... color sand .... then put the Urethane over for clear coat.....

But there is no way for you to paint this to where others will not see these parts as other than original. So why not paint all the car one section at a time ? As long as you stir your paint, and use from one batch, this is feasible...

[willrev]

Generally Glasurit is the original paint manufacturer. They have the best quality clear coat available. Even my local paint supplier - a NAPA store that sells DuPont, says the local guys who do restoration work on show cars all use the Glasurit clear coat. It is the clearest clear available. It is all the body shops around here will use on Mercedes. On your paint tag under the hood the color code should have a G for Glasurit or an H for Herbert Standox.

Standox paint was bought by DuPont. I think Du Pont is the best general paint out there. But Glasurit beats their clear. Volkswagon and Mercedes both use Glasurit.

Here's their website
http://www.glasurit.com/

[dieseldiehard]

934 china blue (chinablau)
just a reminder: the prep work is the most important part of a repaint, that is removing the window seals, removing moldings and chrome and etc. etc. etc. Primer if necessary, then the application of paint in a dust free laminar airflow paint shop. Rub out then another coat, then rub it out then the clearcoat.
Using the best paint is a waste if you don't do the proper preparation and apply it the right way.

[leathermang]

If you are not going down to bare metal then you need to shoot a sealer.

[bennett]

Originally Posted by leathermang

If you are not going down to bare metal then you need to shoot a sealer.

Curious why... I figured the oem benz paint would be the best base anyone could provide and adding a interlayer would only be inferior . I was going to sand and prep the origianl paint... not sure if there is a clearcoat on it.. looks to be OEM
School me, I'm looking for good advice.. and thanks



Pics of my hood and fender

[leathermang]

It takes away any possibility of the paint you spray on interacting ( read bubbling,crinkling,other interesting " artsy" effects).... with the paint already on the car....
It is just one of those rules which I read about a long time ago and felt was worth the extra cost and trouble to be safe....
Your best bet is to contact whomever you are going to buy your paint from and USE THEIR STUFF (and advise ) FROM START TO FINISH..... usually the same brand name... that way if something goes wrong you can get help from the local Factory Rep....

http://1a-automotive-paint.com/
"Sealer" a non-sanding product that is applied prior to painting.

This is a good representative page for instructions...
http://www.jonespg.com/Auto_Paint/dupont_auto_paint.html
I used to use the Centari..

[willrev]

By the way, the original Mercedes OEM primer was not grey or rust colored. It was white. I think this may make a difference.

Do any of you know the correct color code for painting the Bundt rims?

[Fuzzball]

Info on painting the Bundt's can be found here, compliments of Dieseldiehard.


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=107043&highlight=paint+wheels

Just in case the link above doesn't work