door striker quick fix W123, W126 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

diesel dawg · #1 04-05-2006, 04:59 PM

If you have to slam your doors to get them to shut, I discovered a quick fix for this problem. The problem is that the little rubber "hump" on the bottom of the door striker plate (piece that attaches to the body) deteriorates and breaks away over time. If yours is completely gone, you will see a small hole. Into this hole I screwed a small pan head screw. *see picture*. This causes the latch to catch and the door closes easily. Note: if there is still rubber inside the unit, the screw should tap securely into that. If the inside rubber is gone too, or the screw doesn't tighten up, then just use some good epoxy or j-b weld type glue. It worked like a charm for me on the 3 doors that needed it. Hope it helps someone.

Pete Geither · #2 04-05-2006, 07:50 PM

I gotta say,,, those striker plates new from Mercedes can't be that much money, compared to a door flying open and someone falling out. In our business, we NEVER mess with door latches, strikers, or seat belts. We just replace with OEM.

diesel dawg · #3 04-05-2006, 08:55 PM

Pete, I couldn't agree more that safety is always the first concern. However, this "fix" only causes the door to close securely much easier than it did before the screw application. Before, I had to forcefully slam the door to make it catch securely - sometimes required 2 or 3 tries. After putting the screw in place the door shut just as it should. In both cases, the door was securely shut with no chance of coming open. Granted, a new striker plate isn't all that much, +/- $30, but for me a 5 cent screw has worked just as well, and I truly don't believe there is a safety issue here. Thanks for your thoughts.

TexasHammer · #4 09-25-2010, 01:32 PM

does anyone know the part number for the striker plates for an 1985 300D

razvy · #5 10-23-2013, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diesel dawg

If you have to slam your doors to get them to shut, I discovered a quick fix for this problem. The problem is that the little rubber "hump" on the bottom of the door striker plate (piece that attaches to the body) deteriorates and breaks away over time. If yours is completely gone, you will see a small hole. Into this hole I screwed a small pan head screw. *see picture*. This causes the latch to catch and the door closes easily. Note: if there is still rubber inside the unit, the screw should tap securely into that. If the inside rubber is gone too, or the screw doesn't tighten up, then just use some good epoxy or j-b weld type glue. It worked like a charm for me on the 3 doors that needed it. Hope it helps someone.

That's a briliant ideea , door it's like new.
Thx

KASarich · #6 11-12-2013, 05:24 PM

Left: 123 720 01 04
Right: 123 720 02 04

These fit both the front and rear for their respective sides.

These are for 123 chassis cars.

mikeyfev1 · #7 11-21-2013, 10:52 PM

There is a guy from the Far East that sometimes sells just this rubber part on eBay. I bought 4 and installed them on my 300SDL. Will also fit 123s.

komputodo · #8 10-07-2014, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diesel dawg

If you have to slam your doors to get them to shut, I discovered a quick fix for this problem. The problem is that the little rubber "hump" on the bottom of the door striker plate (piece that attaches to the body) deteriorates and breaks away over time. If yours is completely gone, you will see a small hole. Into this hole I screwed a small pan head screw. *see picture*. This causes the latch to catch and the door closes easily. Note: if there is still rubber inside the unit, the screw should tap securely into that. If the inside rubber is gone too, or the screw doesn't tighten up, then just use some good epoxy or j-b weld type glue. It worked like a charm for me on the 3 doors that needed it. Hope it helps someone.

I took it a step further and cut a piece of nylon type plastic from an old cutting board for the front part and formed a piece of copper for the back part. Now the door closes like factory with 1 finger. BTW, even if you didn't fix it properly, there's no way the door is going to fly open. The door will close to the first catch WITHOUT the insert. It's getting it to close to the second catch that's the tricky part.

Junkman · #9 10-10-2015, 10:17 AM

For the record, the entire unit is side specific. The rubber piece can be swapped to any door. I tried making one and never got it working properly. Spray the bolts before attempting to remove. Use a socket Allen wrench. Clean the bolt head. Use a hammer to seat the wrench. I've had cars where 1 bolt head on each door stripped. An easy out worked but there is always the chance of breaking. Use left handed drill bits. You may get lucky and not need the easy out.

The screw idea is brilliant and now my 1st choice if I'm out of spares. Keep your locks lubed.

Redvtwin2 · #10 04-26-2020, 01:47 PM

Deleted cause wrong post. Sorry.

pj67coll · #11 07-23-2020, 04:33 PM

I can't believe I never saw this thread till now. My right front door was almost impossible to close. I had to slam it so hard multiple times that my neighbors wondered if there was a shooting going on and my wife refused to ride in the passenger seat.

The rubber piece was severely degraded and the part that sticks out underneath was gone. I found a pan head, although not quite identical to the one in the OP and was able to make it fit. Door closes great now. Still needs a little force to shut but is basically a thousand times improved.

It'll do fine until I get the replacement rubber inserts, or even completely new strikers.

- Peter.

ckamila · #12 09-12-2020, 01:56 PM

Anyone know of an option for the w116? The strikes are different - attached photo of w123 / w126 upper and w116 lower.

Thanks,
Chris

pj67coll · #13 09-12-2020, 02:07 PM

The 116 appears to be a completely different design. You may have to look at complete striker replacement with that one.

- Peter.