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Alright, finished the DS tunnel hole. I'm going to bolt the parking brake guide back on instead of welding it. I sprayed that rust treatment everything, just in case. I'm going to prime and paint it tomorrow. I have to get everything back together for college visits and I'm going to patch all the big holes with plastic sheeting and duct tape to keep the water out. I'll get back to work in May.
I also switched back to the .025" wire, I'm not sure how well I'm penetrating, but for some reason (maybe because I left the welder out in a little drizzle) the .035" wasn't working. I probably need to adjust my welding technique to get better penetration. |
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If the wire has been damp or is old, it will get a little rusty and this will make the wire chatter as it passes through the liner on it's way to the welding tip. Chatter equals patchy welding. A little WD 40 applied directly to the wire spool often eases this condition a little. |
Following your progress intently. Your driver side looks like my passenger side. The tunnel patch and seat bracket look great to me, but I've never touched a welder! :( Am likely going to pay someone to do it for me, but at least I have some idea of what things should look like thanks to your efforts in posting this thread.
I've currently got my interior stripped to the metal, save center console w/carpet next to knees, driver and rear seats. Quick aside - CAREFUL with the bare metal under the rear seat. I put mine back in just so I could put things back there without the screws that stick up puncturing stuff, such as a 2 liter of Coke that went geyser-like while I was making a turn... Have gotten most of the passenger side rust scraped, chiseled, and wire-brushed down to hard metal edges everywhere, and hit it with some phosphoric acid based rust stopper for the time being. Have been unsure of how to approach the actual repairs though - fiberglass, epoxy, por-15, weld - ugh. After this thread welding it is, even though it's the most expensive and, in my inexperience with such things, seems like the most hassle. The passenger side I understand on mine, it started in the hood hinge pocket. The driver side I have no real clue about - only the spot where the accelerator pedal hinge attaches rusted out. Haven't spent as much time on that side though, hope to know more once I get the knee-level carpeting out. Do I have to take the console out to get it loose? I worked a little at the passenger side with no luck and don't want to force it. Thanks again for sharing your progress and I'm definitely cheering for you (college AND the car)! |
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There's one screw and a clip on the center console that secures the carpet. You might be able to take it out without removing the center console, but it's good practice and it doesn't take that long, plus you get to see what's under it. |
I noticed earlier in this thread that you are not yet using gas with your mig welder?
If that is the case, gas will make all the difference in the world with your welds. Then things will click into place much quicker in your welding learning curve. Hope this helps, Rick_MD Quote:
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New lesson learned today: bodywork, if not all automotive work, cannot be rushed. Trying to put everything back together today so I can drive (plastic and duck tape for the big holes). Getting very frustrated, I ended up blowing right through the rear hole on the center console using an impact driver. You do a crap job and can seriously f things up. This means, for me, no more work outside (weather) and I can't have any plans that include needing the car and I need to have time to work on it. |
Im working on almost the exact same problems with the same materials! although mine are unfortunately a little more widespread due to some botched body work initially done to repair it.
For some temporary stuff though until you get to it, id weld a piece of angle iron in under the seat belt bolt points on both sides. Mine is rusted the same way, and that sucker flexes like crazy when you lean forward. It would probably not work too well keeping you from going into the windshield in an accident. |
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This is an incredible project. I have undertaken similar having grown up in Northern NYS. Mustangs, Jeeps, Datsuns, Porsches, VWs, and various pick ups. I have since learned to hold onto the rusty cars that have great mechanicals, and hold out for the clean body that may need mechanical work. I just picked up a clean W126 for just under 2 grand. No rust, everything works. I will be the last one to discourage as once you get this back together, you will have the satisfaction of filling all the holes in a brick of swiss cheese. Lesser men would back away. Best of luck. |
mig-welding site...
Here's a website that goes quite in depth into body repairs and welding. I found it gave me the confinence to tackle some nasty jobs on my W123...
It has some little videos and explainations for setting the mig up and advice on how to improve your technique.... Anyway here you go-- http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/ |
Looks like a good site.
I'm gonna really need to make a big dent in this project this summer. |
Funny how so many of us go through such great pains to keep these w123 diesels alive. Funny how I own fancier classic benzes but the 123 seems to get most of the attention.
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Hang in there JE - I'm in the same boat http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=286242
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You've been bumped here
Extreme Rust Repair Thread - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum So I'll bump you here too! What happened to this project? |
Seems like only you and I seem to really like the metal/bodywork aspect of this hobby!
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