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  #91  
Old 05-07-2013, 09:35 PM
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1991 W124 300 CE (Coupe)

Hi all,

Couldn't see anything specifically for this model, so here goes.

I want to change the Front Dash speakers, Rear speakers on parcel shelf and also add a Sub.

Any recommendations?...

Many Thanks

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  #92  
Old 05-07-2013, 11:13 PM
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Personally I wouldn't bother with the dash speakers. Too small for any real full range sound. Maybe wire them to a CB radio or BT phone device. lol

If you can fit 6.5" speakers in the door that's the way to go.
Leave the stock wiring alone and rewire with quality speaker wire & RCA twisted cables from HU to amp (keep away from power leads to amp to avoid feedback). Also make sure you have a good metal to metal ground for your (at least 8 ga) wire to amp and capacitor.
And if you're pushing a ported enclosure 12" single or double, get a capacitor for it. 1 farad per 1000 watts.
If you're not pushing more that 1000 watts you could probably do without the cap.

German car audio wiring are completely different animals compared to most cars. That's why I'd leave the stock stuff alone.
Besides they're designed for low wattage 8Ω speakers anyways. Everything now is mostly 4Ωs if not 2.
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91 MBZ 300TE 4M 91 Jag XJS V12 94 Alfa Romeo 164 LS 80 BMW 320i 85 BMW 528e 86 BMW 325e 88 BMW 325e 88 BMW 325i 89 BMW 325ix 95 BMW 525i 96 BMW M3 78 Fiat Spyder 124 98 Land Rover D1 LSE 98 Range Rover HSE 4.6 93 MBZ 190E 2.6 96 MBZ C280 93 MBZ 400E 90 MBZ 300ce 71 MGB-GT 91 VW Corrado G60 97 328i 99 E320 Wagon 97 E320

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  #93  
Old 05-08-2013, 06:28 AM
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There are no door speakers in the Coupe, only fron Dash, and rear parcel shelf...

I dont want to start messing with the wiring, just need to know which speakers to replace the Dash and shelf speakers with, and how to add an active Sub, and also the best placement for the Sub.

Cheers.

Also, I'm based in the UK, incase that restricts me on certain parts.
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  #94  
Old 05-08-2013, 06:35 AM
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  #95  
Old 05-08-2013, 06:40 AM
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Sorry, I dont understand.. Do you want me to replace my entire door card.. This is not what I have on my coupe!... My Coupe is 1991 300CE..

Again, my coupe has speakers in the front dash and on rear shelf.. I dont want to start modding doors!...
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  #96  
Old 05-08-2013, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof.C.Benz View Post
Sorry, I dont understand.. Do you want me to replace my entire door card.. This is not what I have on my coupe!... My Coupe is 1991 300CE..

Again, my coupe has speakers in the front dash and on rear shelf.. I dont want to start modding doors!...
(I did a quick search and ran across this)
http://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w124/405340-1991-300ce-speaker-question.html



If you're looking to upgrade the stock ones, I think they're 4". Just pop them out and measure. Or measure to see if you can fit anything larger if you want.
I've seen a 8" sub mounted under the rear deck lid in the trunk (of a 400E) before. I think the same can be done with a coupe. (if you want to save space).
You just have to figure how many watts you want (or can go) with the little speakers then get the appropriate wattage amp for them. A separate amp for the sub (unless you want to get a large 5 channel). Just having a powered amp (for sub) with your HU only powering the small component speakers, you wouldn't hear them.
I had four 6x8s with a 12" ported in a Ford Ranger (with 5 ch amp) and it didn't sound too bad but I want to fit at least a 6x9.

Anyways just depends on taste and how loud and full sounding you want your system.
If you're staying stock and want a little more power a small 4 or maybe a 2 channel amp would do. But I wouldn't expect anything great sounding for how small they are, unless there are some very high quality ones and you have deep pockets.

Anyways... Google is your friend (for audio resources) and there are plenty of deals on eBay for car audio stuff.

When I had my 300TE a did I double din and 8 speakers with no amp. The double din HU pushed them fine.
But of course it didn't push some good bass.

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91 MBZ 300TE 4M 91 Jag XJS V12 94 Alfa Romeo 164 LS 80 BMW 320i 85 BMW 528e 86 BMW 325e 88 BMW 325e 88 BMW 325i 89 BMW 325ix 95 BMW 525i 96 BMW M3 78 Fiat Spyder 124 98 Land Rover D1 LSE 98 Range Rover HSE 4.6 93 MBZ 190E 2.6 96 MBZ C280 93 MBZ 400E 90 MBZ 300ce 71 MGB-GT 91 VW Corrado G60 97 328i 99 E320 Wagon 97 E320

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Last edited by EuroRash; 05-08-2013 at 07:09 AM. Reason: many corrections... It's 4 in the morning... L☺L
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  #97  
Old 05-19-2013, 11:43 AM
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Dear Ken,

I have a 1987 300SDL and I'm wondering what the correct route is to replace the 4 speakers. 2 speakers are non functioning. Is it necessary to replace the head unit?

Thanks very much for your time!
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  #98  
Old 05-19-2013, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engineering View Post
Dear Ken,

I have a 1987 300SDL and I'm wondering what the correct route is to replace the 4 speakers. 2 speakers are non functioning. Is it necessary to replace the head unit?

Thanks very much for your time!

To test the HU and speakers:
For speakers use a 9 volt battery and touch to (+) (-) and see if the cone moves.
For the HU, when powered, used a multimeter, (IIRK) set to VAC and measure at speaker leads and see if you get voltage.

I believe, although the HU is powered by VDC, the output to speakers is VAC.
All I know is that is how you sync your amp with your HU when using VAC=√P*R (Voltage AC= Square Root of Amp WRMS*Ohms Ω of speaker). Then have your HU at full or 80% volume (with speakers disconnected from amp) then measure VAC from the channel of the amp adjusting the gain to match.
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91 MBZ 300TE 4M 91 Jag XJS V12 94 Alfa Romeo 164 LS 80 BMW 320i 85 BMW 528e 86 BMW 325e 88 BMW 325e 88 BMW 325i 89 BMW 325ix 95 BMW 525i 96 BMW M3 78 Fiat Spyder 124 98 Land Rover D1 LSE 98 Range Rover HSE 4.6 93 MBZ 190E 2.6 96 MBZ C280 93 MBZ 400E 90 MBZ 300ce 71 MGB-GT 91 VW Corrado G60 97 328i 99 E320 Wagon 97 E320

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  #99  
Old 06-13-2013, 07:13 AM
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Hi Ken

I am current owner of a 1994 e220. I just got an original head unit and cd box for my car to replace the after market unit which was installed by the previous owner. However the unit and box did not come with the original sockets and wires. Therefore would you please tell me where I can find the original socket and wires to compete the installation?

Thanks
Gary
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  #100  
Old 07-04-2013, 11:53 PM
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You've confirmed my instinctive reservations about going to the average shop. Planning on replacing rear shelf speakers in 95 E320 with 5" coaxials. Will they clear, with perhaps some supplemental material for mounting? And will the headend drive them at moderate levels or do I need to put in an amplifier? Waiting to do front door speakers and dash until the window motor finally gives up. Thanks a million for any advice.
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  #101  
Old 07-05-2013, 06:59 PM
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I have a pair of 6" (2 ohm with crossovers) speakers from a 93 400E (door speakers) if anyone is interested. Excellent condition

$30 plus shipping.
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  #102  
Old 07-28-2013, 01:05 PM
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a little speaker help

H!-
Thank you for sharing the knowledge you have, I hope it can help me.

I have a 1995 E300D, and would like to finally upgrade the speakers.
I don't really want to start taking stuff apart just to see what size they are.

There are 3-pairs - dash board, door panels ( blocked, right next to the seats ! ), and the rear deck.

I was hoping you could tell me what size / style each pair is.

Thanks again,
Tony
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  #103  
Old 07-28-2013, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imd1tv View Post
H!-
Thank you for sharing the knowledge you have, I hope it can help me.

I have a 1995 E300D, and would like to finally upgrade the speakers.
I don't really want to start taking stuff apart just to see what size they are.

There are 3-pairs - dash board, door panels ( blocked, right next to the seats ! ), and the rear deck.

I was hoping you could tell me what size / style each pair is.

Thanks again,
Tony

You should probably call the dealer or a shop that does only German cars to know exactly what size speakers they are. I would say 5.25" but couldn't say for certain.
Personally I think considering anything smaller than a 6.5" speaker isn't worth the upgrade. I've done 6x8s in my Ford Ranger truck, but was pushing four of them and also a 12" sub off a 1100w 5 ch amp. So not exactly a stock set up, and it sounded OK.



My 91 BMW Cabrio sounded well with four 6.5" speakers with 400w amp. But they needed more power since they're rated 100w RMS on the speakers.
Originally they had 5.25 in the foot kick panels I was able to fit the 6.5" speaker in there without any cutting into the metal frame.
I left the kick panel covers off because I didn't want to ruin their like new condition. It's a low visibility area so you can really notice.



Fitting rear speakers, left me with setting up some sort of custom mount since you can't fit anything but stock in the regular rear location.
I actually split a set of 400E door speaker cases in half a used that as a mounting plate then added spacers.



I ended mounting these a little higher and closer to the center to emit more sound between the seats.


Currently my 92 500SL has two (I think 6.5s) in the doors pushed by an old school Alpine 4 ch amp bridged to 40w RMS per ch.
The quality is OK, but loud enough to hear with the top down. It came with the car, so eventually I will upgrade.

What will be the determining factor is the quality and RMS wattage rating of your speakers and the amp (if you choose to use one). Most stereo head units push 22w RMS per ch and do OK.

Of course all depends on how well and loud you want you car audio to be.
Some are happy with just having one that works or you can use CD on USB on it.

I like high quality and loudness with at least a 10" sub with ported enclosure (300w RMS @ 4 ohms is enough thumpin' bass for me).

Unfortunately I had to sell my 12" sub and amp set up to help pay for my SL registration.

(IMHO) Having a good quality stereo system in your ride definitely makes a difference in your driving experience. No matter how far you need to go. I don't even consider getting into an install unless I have all the component upgrades ready to go. I don't forget proper cabling as well. Running cheap or too thin gauge of wire and low quality RCA wires can lead to short changing your equipment and feedback (whine) from the engine.

With enough time invest in research and what type of quality you want you'll come up with the right combo.
Most of my good name brand equipment was purchased from eBay. So I saved a lot vs retail.

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Last edited by EuroRash; 07-28-2013 at 05:42 PM.
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  #104  
Old 10-15-2013, 05:44 PM
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Hello I am curious to know if I would be able to use the inputs in back of the radio from the no longer usable factory mobile phone as an AUX in for a Becker 1492 in a 94 E320?
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  #105  
Old 10-15-2013, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJguy View Post
Hello I am curious to know if I would be able to use the inputs in back of the radio from the no longer usable factory mobile phone as an AUX in for a Becker 1492 in a 94 E320?
Unless you want to keep the stock look, why not just upgrade to a modern head unit? They are very affordable and have all the inputs and variations of media available: Aux, USB, CD, etc..

I just use a 32GB USB flash drive that's no bigger than 1/3 of my finger.
Can store enough MP3s to last a drive from coast to coast.

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91 MBZ 300TE 4M 91 Jag XJS V12 94 Alfa Romeo 164 LS 80 BMW 320i 85 BMW 528e 86 BMW 325e 88 BMW 325e 88 BMW 325i 89 BMW 325ix 95 BMW 525i 96 BMW M3 78 Fiat Spyder 124 98 Land Rover D1 LSE 98 Range Rover HSE 4.6 93 MBZ 190E 2.6 96 MBZ C280 93 MBZ 400E 90 MBZ 300ce 71 MGB-GT 91 VW Corrado G60 97 328i 99 E320 Wagon 97 E320

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