I'd really suggest you read some of Rick's writeups @

www.carecareonline.com.


I won't get into a wax debate, but the 3M micropolish he suggest is really nice for cleanup. You'll not in his writeup that clay is an abrasive. My brother wasn't receptive, but did a fender on his 93 RX7, which he has kept covered in meguires wax since it was new. The 3M plus wax really made a big difference and he proceeded to do the whole car.

For the p21s lovers-march is the sale month for the 5 liter container.

Michael

Car looks pretty good John, you can tell a big difference :)

Use an electric leaf blower to blow the water off the car and from all the nooks and crannies.

Then go over it with a microfiber towel(s) and blot up any excess water.

Anthony

John, soaking a real chamois makes it pliable. Then wring it out before using it to dry water beads off your car. As you dry the car it's necessary to repeatedly wring out the chamois.

The directions with my synthetic chamois call for it to be stored wet in its plastic container.

That was what I had been doing. But it seamed that every wipe with the chamois left water on the car which beaded up into fine beads and formed the water spots. Now that I have the Taurus waxed I will try wetting it down a few times and drying it off. Maybe I need to be a little more serious about wring out the chamois. I will get it under control.

John Roncallo

Are you recommending not using a chamios at all. And I noticed you said blot not wipe is that correct.

Thank You
John Roncallo

John, the easiest and most effective way to dry a car is with a gas-powered backpack blower. It removes 95% of the water and quickly going over the entire car, door jambs and trunk lid opening with a cotton towel removes the rest in short order. Using the backpack blower results in wax lasting longer too.

I don't use a chamois because it harbors grit and once in there it is difficult to remove it.

If you notice a chamois, when wet, makes full contact with your paint, it's like almost being suctioned to the car, so if any grit blows onto the car you then grind it into the paint because the grit has no where to go.

With a microfiber towel the grit gets pushed up into the fibers where it is then washed out.

Blotting the car is done after it is blown dried. I do not use nor recommend a gas blower, it is heavy, loud and you have a chance of dripping gas or oil on the car. I use an electric leaf blower, been using one for the past 8 years or so and it works great. Only some small water should be left behind and this can be blotted up, then use a QD with a mf and wipe the car down.

Anthony

Thank You to everyone who replied to this post. It has been a most educational experiance. For the moment the finish on the MB is very good and my only goal is getting into a maintenance and preservation routine. When I finish doing the engine mounts on the car I will just do a regulare wash and wax. In the mean time I will be experimenting with products on my Taurus and F-150. There are a few scratches on the MB I would like to see if I can get out without pianting but I will try it on the Taurus an truck first. Which both have plenty of scratches to choose from. I'v gotten plenty of ideas from this news group.

John Roncallo

Just spent the day washing, cleaning, waxing and detailing the wife's Jeep Liberty and my brand new Escape. The SL is still tucked away.

Regarding the dishwashing detergent, I do not believe it is an urban legend. I have heard it from several detailers and SAW it today myself. Maybe it doesn't do any good against the better waxes most of us use Zaino for me, Mequairs or ...

The Escape was brand new last Saturday, and I know the dealer put a quick coat of wax on it, (probably cheap, maybe liquid ??).
I rinsed the car heavily, and it beaded quite well.
Then proceeded to wash it with dishwashing liquid, it wasn't Dawn but the same. As I rinsed it, NO more beading NONE, even rinsed a couple of times to double check.

Note I do use a chamois, AND I know and have been told NO.
A close friend does like the leaf blower, although he uses an electric one. He did a bunch of research (He's way too Anal that way, and people say I'm bad, I'm not in his league). There is a brand / model that provide the the best air flow etc. You want volume, not pressure. He's also moved to Micro for drying so I probably will soon too.

So a compressor is not the thing, although great to clean the interior vents / cracks / crevices ...

Just my 2 cents

Use the hose to dry the car
 

A tip I picked up from a professional detailer is to use the hose when finished with washing to get most of the water off the car. Take the sprayer nozzle off the hose and use a steady stream of water going over the entire car from top to bottom. Most of the water will run off - what is left can be blotted off with a chamois or artificial chamois.

Some people wash car with alcohol, dish wash detergent, etc. before waxing.
I would not do that. I did not see any car care products manufacturer recommend that, and I think there is reason why they do not recommend that.
You can post this topic at MeguiarsOnline.com.

I would wash my car with car wash, and then use paint cleaner (Meguiars #9, or ScratchX, etc), or a wax that has sufficient cleaning ability.

At CR test, Meg. Deep Crystal wax lasted longer if it was used in three step than when it was used alone. Partly due to cleanness of the surface, I guess. I think it also has something to do with the 'nourishing' the paint (with "polish", in Meguiars term). Using alcohol, etc. is doing the opposit.

Well you would only use dish washing liquid the first time to remove the old wax, cheap wax.

Or actually "denatured alcohol" to remove the polymer typw waxes, Zaino, Mequairs ... before a deep cleaning exercise.

Once that's done, please I hope to never go through that on the Benz again, you should only use a "Car wash" liquid.

I have additional reason why I do not use alcohol, or dish wash detergent.

MB's have wax based factory rustproof (in my case it is written in the owner's manual, and a rustproof shop owner in the UK said that the MB factory rust proof wax is of high quality) in many hidden places.

I do not want to damage that factory wax. If I wash my vehicle with alcohol, etc., the alcohol etc. will flow down to frames under the hood, inside the door, etc. Since MB did not reveal information about that factory wax, I do not know whether alcohol or dish wash detergent can damage that wax. In any case, I want the safer and officially recommeded (by car care product manufacturer and car manufacturer) method.

Paint cleaners, or cleaner waxes will remove old previous wax layer on paint.

Car wash has ingredients that will act as lubricant and thus reduce possibility of making swirls on paint. I do not think Alcohol does as good job as car wash in this aspect.