The climate control vents have been acting "weird" for a while, but the system still delivers conditioned air to the cabin, so I have been off doing other higher-priority items.

Then, this morning, I heard what I thought was fan noise, but it didn't go away when I shut off the fan. I figure it must be a vacuum leak. (The other clue was the hissing/gurgling sound. :BG It went away after a while, but I have moved this to higher priority.

Previously, I wanted to remove the leg pad to have a look at the climate control vacuum switches and actuators. I removed the upper screws, the plastic screw by the center console, and 1 screw below. The pad didn't want to come free, it was getting dark, I was tired, and I just put the screws back in and called it a day. BTW, the CD-ROM shows driver's side removal, but I couldn't find a good diagram for the passenger side...

Could someone tell me how many screws and their location? Also, is there any other technique, such as lifting, pulling, rotating, etc. required?

Thanks, and cover me, I'm going in!

BCingU, Jim



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'96 E300D 60k mi (wife's daily ride)
'95 Audi 90 118k mi (for sale)
'92 GMC Suburban 138k mi
'85 300SD 231k mi (my daily ride)

Update. Cooling and ventilation air in MY car comes out of both the upper and center vents, while heating air comes out of the uppers only. I believe cooling should be center only.

So, I finally got that "Round Tuit" and had a look behind the glove compartment. It really IS easy to remove.

While poking around in there, I discovered two things.

1. The fan thich draws cabin air through the temperature sensor was not turning. Cleaning and a light lube were useless; time for a new part. With this fan running again, I believe I won't BAKE until the sensor decides that it's warm enough in the cabin.

2. I then discovered that the vacuum actuator for the center vents doesn't move on its own. It moves freely by hand, which results in air through the center vents only. I don't know if it's a lack of signal to the switchover valve, or a defective switchover valve not putting a vacuum signal to the actuator.

The Service Manual shows pictures of actuators and switchover valves, and prescribes this removal (68-150?) as a necessary step to gaining access to the switchover valves.

So, I then tried (again) to remove the leg pad. Undid top screws, the plastic screw by the center, and the bottom screw. Again, got frustrated when the pad would NOT come off easily and gave up before using the BRUTE FORCE method. The door-side seems free, but the console side acts like I've missed a fastener

Any help will be appreciated.

Oh yeah, if I read the Manual right I have to remove the console right side. Anything else? If so, I may have to make this a longer project, or just give up the DIY and take it in to a Tech who knows how to do this.

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'96 E300D 60k mi (wife's daily ride)
'95 Audi 90 120k mi
'92 GMC Suburban 139k mi
'85 300SD 234k mi (my daily ride)

Jim, I thought that the temperature sensor, at least in my 1984 300SD, was up above the rear view mirror. I never knew it had a fan. It must be tiny, like a CPU cooling fan from a computer.

I was told by my MB tech that it was about 600-or more to R/R the vacuum actuators. Mine only has the defrost working. The sensor is above the mirror. Found out that the leaks in these units affect tranny shifting. Had one replaced new unit was 65.00 nad was told it was the easy one. The other three I was led to believe are behind the center console dash, and that either have very small hands or the dash had to be removed. Hope yours is much more simple matter! LH

You are both right. The sensor IS above the mirror, and the "dome" light. My '85 also has a small fan behind the glove box. Its purpose is to draw air from the cabin over the sensor to speed up the sensor reaction time.

In my case, without this fan, the heater produces VERY HOT air until the sensor feels the effect some time later. Once the cabin has reached steady temperature the sensor does a fine job of keeping the temperature steady.

There is a rubber hose running from the fan up the passenger side "A" pillar to the sensor. The fan/motor is about 1-2" in diameter and 4" long, much bigger than a PC chip fan. The motor is about the size of a windshield washer pump motor.

Leon, thanks for the heads up on difficulty and $$$. My bet is it's behind the center console.

Since this car is my "budget" experiment, I'm going to DIY as much as I can to save $$$ (It may also prove how much pain I can take )

I may also have the distinction of being the only MB driver in MI to be driving without a center console for a while.

BCingU, Jim


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'96 E300D 60k mi (wife's daily ride)
'95 Audi 90 120k mi
'92 GMC Suburban 139k mi
'85 300SD 234k mi (my daily ride)

News flash! This weekend I replaced the little blower and motor. It was a simple job, requiring 15 minutes to remove the glove box, put the rubber hose on the blower, plug it in, snap the assmembly into the clip and put the box back in.

This morning it was 35F or so. I had the climate control set to 22C. When the engine reached minimum temperature the blower started and stepped up to high speed. The air temperature warmed up with engine coolant temperature.

Then, instead of the continued blast of hot air in the face I had come to expect, the fan speed began to step down and I could feel the air temperature modulate. Soon, the fan was down to minumum and the air temperature was perfect, all without "overshooting" the mark.

Score one small victory for the DIY'ers of the world.

Next step, the removal of the leg panel. Now, where did I put that round tuit?

BCingU, Jim

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'96 E300D 60k mi (wife's daily ride)
'95 Audi 90 120k mi
'92 GMC Suburban 139k mi
'85 300SD 234k mi (my daily ride)