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#16
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I've heard that loss of oil in 1300 miles and a foul odor is the prelude to an engine blowing up...
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79 240D my current toy 42 years a Diesel addict 240D sold 250SE sold 220D sold 280C sold 280S sold 300D (2) sold 300CD sold 300DT sold 300SD sold 380SL sold |
#17
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Without encouraging more debate about oils here I think I remember something about Rotella being a detergent oil. If this is the case then the fact that it is blacker than you would normally expect could be due to the fact that it has washed out contaminants that were built up in your engine. So you problem may not necessarily be directly correlated to the quality of the oil itself. Just an idea....
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88 300E 03 911 C4S 2008 Triumph Speed Triple My pics --> www.BrettAdamsDesign.com |
#18
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#19
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change it hot and often!!!
i have noticed that if i go more than 3mos or 3000mi the car burns a bit of oil, and that consumption increases the longer i put off the oil change. if i go only 3mos/3000 it doesn't burn any. on the other hand i have never used synthetic oil. running dino chevron delo 400 15/40.
no problem in winter and great mileage. oh and a great price too.. end of my .02
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1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP |
#20
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I have been considering a change from Rotella to Chevron oil (what's it called? Delo?). I have been using Rotella in my farm tractors for about 4 years without any apparent problems. The other day I checked the oil on one of my tractors and was distressed to see that the was level below normal and looked sort of muddy. The low level is partly related to the relatively high hours on the motor (about 6,200 hours). It also might be due to a brain freeze on my part when I recently changed the oil. I might have underfilled it. The muddy appearance I can't explain.
One of the oil threads on this board convinced me to use the Chevron oil when I bought my 1985 300D, but I have stuck with Rotella in my farm equipment based on the assumption that it is good to stick with one brand of oil. Anybody have any thoughts on whether I should switch everything to the Chevron oil? |
#21
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Caveat Emptor!
The real question is are you sure that the oil you used was Rotella T? I have been using Rotella T 15W40 at 3000 mile intervals for the last 15 years and it seems to be fine. I recently switched to Rotella T synthetic 5W40 because of better performance in the winter. At Wal Mart It sells for $12.84 a gallon which is the best price that I have seen for a diesel rated synthetic oil. I do not have enough scientific knowledge to know which synthetic oil is best but I am reasonably sure that It is better than any non synthetic oil. The one comment that I have is that you have to be careful when you buy it at Wal Mart. Both Rotella Ts have a screw cap with an aluminum seal as opposed to an external plastic seal like most other oils. The result is that it is not possible to tell if the container has been tampered with unless you unscrew the cap and check it before you buy it. So it is like buying eggs where you have to open the package to see if any of the eggs are broken. On numerous occasions I have noticed on a prepurchase inspection that the seal is broken on the synthetic oil. I have never seen a broken seal on the cheaper Rotella T...only on the more expensive synthetic stuff. I suspect that the employees are switching the contents with an inferior grade of oil. Its kinda like going to a liquor store and buying a bottle of Jack Daniel's that has been refilled with Ten High.
I know that I sound like some of a kook with a conspiracy theory but I worked for NCR for 23 years and I can tell you from real experience that many low paid employees in a retail store are about as honest as they have to be. I have reported it to store managers on 2 occasions only to be met with a blank stare. I still use the Rotella T synthetic but what I have to do is buy it when i can find it in containers with the seals intact. The bottom line is that Shell Oil Co. needs to needs to rethink their packaging and come up with a container like the other brands have so that it is readily apparent if tampering has taken place.
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Tom Hughes St. Louis 84 300SD 92 300D 86 300SDL |
#22
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Tom I've seen the same thing before and at more then one store.
Also be aware there is a quit recall going on by Penzoil of all 10w-30 oil at AutoZone stores. I don't know why they are recalling and if it's just with AutoZone or all stores selling the oil. Also it could be just localized specfic sales zone.
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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride. '13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride. Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor. |
#23
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Since I feel the need to change every 5K due to soot levels, it does not make a whole lot of sense to purchase the better Group IV synthetics. |
#24
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My 240D spends 95% of it's time parked in the garage with battery tender plugged in to car. Sunday will 2 weeks since I filled up car and when I came back to the house earlier I had 1/2 a tank. Probably will not put 25 miles on car by then either, unless I get a wild hair for a road trip for fresh farm produce. Wife has hinted for two days for me to do just that. Remember I also have access to a very high quality fuel locally and it will make a difference in the soot readings. Also once in a while I tap the "bean juice" and run some B100 to clean things out.
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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride. '13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride. Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor. Last edited by oldnavy; 08-24-2004 at 01:56 PM. |
#25
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Where do you find this higher cetane fuel? It would be worth the additional cost in increased fuel economy. |
#26
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More recently, I have tried some of the one's you see that say "As seen on TV" magic oil addatives and tried the stuff not only in my crankcase but a bunch of stuff and have found amazing results that no oil I have ever tried have come close! as posted by Sarafin...
Oh no, PLEASE DONT BRING BACK THE SLICK 50 UPDATE AGAIN!!! Also these additives are great for bicycle chains and shop machinery, but a diesel or internal combustion engine exposes an oil to a vastly different.. there are huge shear forces and dynamic viscosity & thermal& load gradients, not to .. any given molecule of oil will find itself one moment on a piston ring and a microsecond later in the crankshaft..temperature variations...the automotive engine is probably the roughest environment OIL faces |
#27
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It's a local AMOCO jobber with unattended pumps that sells AMOCO Powerblend that's miminum 48 cetane but will usually be 50 or better. I have talked to several Duramax drivers thatuse the fuel and they can tell the difference from regular #2D 42 cetane stuff. I drive 50 miles to get this fuel.
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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride. '13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride. Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor. |
#28
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Thanks OldNavy. I am going to look up some Amoco around here, even if I pay more for it.
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#29
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I think the BP/AMOCO website gives a list of areas it's available or you can contact them for a list as I did a couple of years ago. We have one local AMOCO station that does not get it's fuel from AMOCO, but from independent jobber. His diesel is crud and I think he dumps used motor oil from his service bays in to the tanks on occasions.
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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride. '13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride. Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor. |
#30
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Mobil-1 is great stuff. Use the 15W-50 version only if you buy the 5 quart jug at Wal-Mart. (The 5W-40 is even better, IMO, but only available in quart bottles.) If you extend drain intervals, it is not more expensive, it can actually be CHEAPER than using dino and changing every 3kmi. There are a myriad of benefits to using synthetics, I think you made a good choice. I use Mobil-1 in all 6 of my vehicles (3 Mercedes, 1 VW, 1 Ford van, 1 Aprilia motorcycle). If you have an engine with noisy hydraulic lifters, it can make an immediate difference in some cases. |
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