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  #16  
Old 08-24-2004, 10:18 AM
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Cool

I've heard that loss of oil in 1300 miles and a foul odor is the prelude to an engine blowing up...

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  #17  
Old 08-24-2004, 10:28 AM
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Without encouraging more debate about oils here I think I remember something about Rotella being a detergent oil. If this is the case then the fact that it is blacker than you would normally expect could be due to the fact that it has washed out contaminants that were built up in your engine. So you problem may not necessarily be directly correlated to the quality of the oil itself. Just an idea....
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  #18  
Old 08-24-2004, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter
1985 300SD.

Used Rotella T for the last oil change.
Now I have burnt oil stink.
At 1300 miles 1.75 quarts low.
The oil looks like oil well drilling derrick sludge in Texas.

I have been running Mobile 1 15W-50.
Last oil change delayed due to emergencies.
At 6280 miles it was not a drop low on oil.

The oil gets changed this weekend, back to Mobile 1 15W-50.

This is a mad as H**L thread, with oil involved.
Whunter correct me if I'm wrong aren't you the same guy thats claims to be a mechanic.
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  #19  
Old 08-24-2004, 11:38 AM
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Lightbulb change it hot and often!!!

i have noticed that if i go more than 3mos or 3000mi the car burns a bit of oil, and that consumption increases the longer i put off the oil change. if i go only 3mos/3000 it doesn't burn any. on the other hand i have never used synthetic oil. running dino chevron delo 400 15/40.
no problem in winter and great mileage. oh and a great price too..
end of my .02
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  #20  
Old 08-24-2004, 11:46 AM
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I have been considering a change from Rotella to Chevron oil (what's it called? Delo?). I have been using Rotella in my farm tractors for about 4 years without any apparent problems. The other day I checked the oil on one of my tractors and was distressed to see that the was level below normal and looked sort of muddy. The low level is partly related to the relatively high hours on the motor (about 6,200 hours). It also might be due to a brain freeze on my part when I recently changed the oil. I might have underfilled it. The muddy appearance I can't explain.

One of the oil threads on this board convinced me to use the Chevron oil when I bought my 1985 300D, but I have stuck with Rotella in my farm equipment based on the assumption that it is good to stick with one brand of oil.

Anybody have any thoughts on whether I should switch everything to the Chevron oil?
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  #21  
Old 08-24-2004, 01:02 PM
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Caveat Emptor!

The real question is are you sure that the oil you used was Rotella T? I have been using Rotella T 15W40 at 3000 mile intervals for the last 15 years and it seems to be fine. I recently switched to Rotella T synthetic 5W40 because of better performance in the winter. At Wal Mart It sells for $12.84 a gallon which is the best price that I have seen for a diesel rated synthetic oil. I do not have enough scientific knowledge to know which synthetic oil is best but I am reasonably sure that It is better than any non synthetic oil. The one comment that I have is that you have to be careful when you buy it at Wal Mart. Both Rotella Ts have a screw cap with an aluminum seal as opposed to an external plastic seal like most other oils. The result is that it is not possible to tell if the container has been tampered with unless you unscrew the cap and check it before you buy it. So it is like buying eggs where you have to open the package to see if any of the eggs are broken. On numerous occasions I have noticed on a prepurchase inspection that the seal is broken on the synthetic oil. I have never seen a broken seal on the cheaper Rotella T...only on the more expensive synthetic stuff. I suspect that the employees are switching the contents with an inferior grade of oil. Its kinda like going to a liquor store and buying a bottle of Jack Daniel's that has been refilled with Ten High.
I know that I sound like some of a kook with a conspiracy theory but I worked for NCR for 23 years and I can tell you from real experience that many low paid employees in a retail store are about as honest as they have to be. I have reported it to store managers on 2 occasions only to be met with a blank stare.
I still use the Rotella T synthetic but what I have to do is buy it when i can find it in containers with the seals intact. The bottom line is that Shell Oil Co. needs to needs to rethink their packaging and come up with a container like the other brands have so that it is readily apparent if tampering has taken place.
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  #22  
Old 08-24-2004, 01:16 PM
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Tom I've seen the same thing before and at more then one store.

Also be aware there is a quit recall going on by Penzoil of all 10w-30 oil at AutoZone stores. I don't know why they are recalling and if it's just with AutoZone or all stores selling the oil. Also it could be just localized specfic sales zone.
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  #23  
Old 08-24-2004, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldnavy
One of the things about the use of synthetic oil is the extended drain interval. Most diesel cars using a synthetic oil for diesels (has additive package for soot not found in regular synthetic oil) can easly go 10 to 20 thousand miles on an oil change.
I too like the extended drain intereval with the synthetic. I run Rotella T synthetic, at $13.00/ gallon, and I change it at 5K miles. Now, oldnavy, I have to disagree with attempting to go more than 8K with a 617 engine. I did that one time. I had the oil tested after that 8K run and, although the additive package was fine, the soot levels were definitely elevated. Since soot is an abrasive, it would be foolish to attempt to go 10K or more with any oil in a 617. The 616 is similar.

Since I feel the need to change every 5K due to soot levels, it does not make a whole lot of sense to purchase the better Group IV synthetics.
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  #24  
Old 08-24-2004, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
I too like the extended drain intereval with the synthetic. I run Rotella T synthetic, at $13.00/ gallon, and I change it at 5K miles. Now, oldnavy, I have to disagree with attempting to go more than 8K with a 617 engine. I did that one time. I had the oil tested after that 8K run and, although the additive package was fine, the soot levels were definitely elevated. Since soot is an abrasive, it would be foolish to attempt to go 10K or more with any oil in a 617. The 616 is similar.

Since I feel the need to change every 5K due to soot levels, it does not make a whole lot of sense to purchase the better Group IV synthetics.
Glad to see you are using testing to be sure of things.

Quote:
One of the things about the use of synthetic oil is the extended drain interval. Most diesel cars using a synthetic oil for diesels (has additive package for soot not found in regular synthetic oil) can easly go 10 to 20 thousand miles on an oil change.
I was refering to the newer VW cars and did not make myself clear, about that I'm sorry. I would think if EGR system and oil filter were working proper there should not be that big a difference. However fuel and driving condition can alter those greatly. These VW's also have all the latest tec CPU's monitoring engine parameters and that may also be the or apart of the reason for the difference. I plan on doing an oil sample test at 6000 miles when I next change my oil in the 240 to see if it will go further. That's not a cast in stone mileage target, I am trying to aim at a once a year change. I only average about 6 or 7 thousand miles a year on a car nowdays.

My 240D spends 95% of it's time parked in the garage with battery tender plugged in to car. Sunday will 2 weeks since I filled up car and when I came back to the house earlier I had 1/2 a tank. Probably will not put 25 miles on car by then either, unless I get a wild hair for a road trip for fresh farm produce. Wife has hinted for two days for me to do just that.

Remember I also have access to a very high quality fuel locally and it will make a difference in the soot readings. Also once in a while I tap the "bean juice" and run some B100 to clean things out.
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Last edited by oldnavy; 08-24-2004 at 01:56 PM.
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  #25  
Old 08-24-2004, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldnavy

I plan on doing an oil sample test at 6000 miles when I next change my oil in the 240 to see if it will go further.
I'd be interested in seeing how much soot the 616 has at 6K. The 617's test at 8K involved no stop and go driving. It has no EGR. It generally gets out on the highway at 60-70 mph and goes for 2 1/2 hours nonstop, as a minimum. Of course, it uses the generally available poor quality fuel.

Where do you find this higher cetane fuel? It would be worth the additional cost in increased fuel economy.
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  #26  
Old 08-24-2004, 02:02 PM
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More recently, I have tried some of the one's you see that say "As seen on TV" magic oil addatives and tried the stuff not only in my crankcase but a bunch of stuff and have found amazing results that no oil I have ever tried have come close! as posted by Sarafin...

Oh no, PLEASE DONT BRING BACK THE SLICK 50 UPDATE AGAIN!!!
Also these additives are great for bicycle chains and shop machinery, but a diesel or internal combustion engine exposes an oil to a vastly different.. there are huge shear forces and dynamic viscosity & thermal& load gradients, not to .. any given molecule of oil will find itself one moment on a piston ring and a microsecond later in the crankshaft..temperature variations...the automotive engine is probably the roughest environment OIL faces
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  #27  
Old 08-24-2004, 02:07 PM
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It's a local AMOCO jobber with unattended pumps that sells AMOCO Powerblend that's miminum 48 cetane but will usually be 50 or better. I have talked to several Duramax drivers thatuse the fuel and they can tell the difference from regular #2D 42 cetane stuff. I drive 50 miles to get this fuel.
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  #28  
Old 08-24-2004, 02:18 PM
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Thanks OldNavy. I am going to look up some Amoco around here, even if I pay more for it.
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  #29  
Old 08-24-2004, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Thanks OldNavy. I am going to look up some Amoco around here, even if I pay more for it.
Be aware that there are a lot of BP/AMOCO stations advertizing the Premier (min 52 C) and Powerblend (min 48 C) fuels for sale, but tested fuel samples have proven they are sticking people. I had my source tested, cost $30 best I remember. Remember it only takes 2 of 5 requirements for it to be legal "primium" fuel.

I think the BP/AMOCO website gives a list of areas it's available or you can contact them for a list as I did a couple of years ago. We have one local AMOCO station that does not get it's fuel from AMOCO, but from independent jobber. His diesel is crud and I think he dumps used motor oil from his service bays in to the tanks on occasions.
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  #30  
Old 08-24-2004, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarafin
I'm using Mobile One now because I have read several posts in this forum about oil and some of those who posted their debate were oil chemical engineers who seemed to know what they were talking about, others here say Mobile One will help make your MB diesel run better, such as hydraulic lifters.

Can, or will anyone here, be willing to comment on my claim? Or am I a complete sucker wanting to believe?

Steve
Steve,

Mobil-1 is great stuff. Use the 15W-50 version only if you buy the 5 quart jug at Wal-Mart. (The 5W-40 is even better, IMO, but only available in quart bottles.) If you extend drain intervals, it is not more expensive, it can actually be CHEAPER than using dino and changing every 3kmi. There are a myriad of benefits to using synthetics, I think you made a good choice. I use Mobil-1 in all 6 of my vehicles (3 Mercedes, 1 VW, 1 Ford van, 1 Aprilia motorcycle). If you have an engine with noisy hydraulic lifters, it can make an immediate difference in some cases.



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