1983 300SD. I am trying to get the rear rotor off to replace it. Is there a release screw or spot that I am missing? Do I need a special tool somewhere. Need Help

Hello ,
I am replacing rotors on my car as well.
Put on your safty glasses.
I use "P B Blaster" a type of penatrating oil.
Put a few drops arount the hub.
Be aware that your e-brake shoes are behind the hub. If you get them oily use brake cleaner and spray them clean.
then get a large hammer ...a sledge hammer works well.
You dont need a lot of strength. The weight of the hammer will do.
You can also use a 2x4 x12 in. block of wood and a smaller hammer, just give it a real good whack! Its all about energy transfer .........
Give it a square hit right on the face. Between the bolt holes.
It will bounce right off.
Clean off the hub with some sand paper.

I almost forgot ..... I believe there is a small bolt holding the rotor in place. You need a 5MM hex. Remove that first.
-A

I do not recall a bolt holding anything in place. Just remove caliper and make sure your e-brake is OFF. Give her a nice whack if needed.

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

Thank you for your help. Where is the hex bolt? The only bolt I see is the one in the center of the hub. Also by knocking the rotor off with a hammer won't I damage something in the e-brake system. How often does the e-brake system have to be replaced?

Mine has a countersunk screw that holds the rotor in place. It's between 2 of the lug-bolt holes. Once that's out, follow Anthonies instructions. Repeat as needed.

__________________
past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
'67 230
'84 SD
Current rides:
'06 Lexus RX330
'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
'86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper)

Are the SD systems different from the 300D W123's? Just wondering, as the right rotor on my '83 just almost fell off after the caliper was removed in preparation for changing out the CV shaft. Its possible that the e-brake shoes are adjusted out quite a bit, and that there is a lip on the drum somewhat like outside the main pads after some wear has occurred. Also the hex bolt in the center of the hub holds the CV shaft in place, don't remove that one!

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

Yes,
There is one countersunk bolt that holds the rotor in position. There is also a drift pin in the hub. I believe this arangement aligns the rotor to the hub and allows the lugs to thread in easily. Make sure you replace it ... not too tight! Do not remove the center Bolt in the hub!
As for replacing the e-brake shoes. My car has 135,000 miles on it. The shoes have some cracks from age and thermal expantion. If the shoes are in good shape with no cracks and you dont typicaly use the E-brake youll save $32.00
I am very piticular with my car ..... I replace it weather it needs it or not. I have pics if you need them.
-Anthony

If you could post the pictures I would appreciate it. Dennis

for you.

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
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Technical Quality Auditor.
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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

nope no bolt on the 83 300sd. i had mine off a while back and had to use a bottle jack to get it off. you might try heating it up.

__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

Couple good wacks on the center, then tap the flat area round where the pads run, should pop off. Do not hit very hard if you need to re-use the rotor for braking (it will be fine as a boat anchor).

The rears usually require that you back off the parking brake to get them off if they come loose from the hub but won't come free. Adjuster is about 2:00 oclock, visible through a lug bolt hole.

The rears tend to rust on pretty bad, as it's normal for them to be there for 100,000 miles or more! Use a little antisieze on the face of the hub under new ones.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

The bolt is there to hold wheel bolt hole alignment between hub and rotor.
Someone lost or broke yours, at a guess.
You can run without it, just adds PIA to wheel R&R if the rotor and hub shift.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

As Mr whunter indicated Your bolt my have been lost or broke off.

Anyway here is the pic of my 350SD
-A

A larger picture .....