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Old 09-10-2004, 07:08 PM
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Posts: 11
Mercedes engine prep for install

I have a 1976 Mercedes Benz 300D, 115 body (diesel 5 cylinder inline). When I had the funds I purchased a used engine from Texas to replace the existing unit. This replacement has been in my shop with the oil drained from the pan for about 1 yr. I want to finish the install of the engine. I am wondering about putting oil back into the engine and how to ensure that the oil will be somewhat distributed throughout the oil passages and bearing surfaces of the engine. Would it be advisable to manually turn over the engine (with the oil installed) by the crank bolt -or- starter to distribute the oil, prior to putting the engine back into the car. I think that with the injectors removed the cranking should not be a major problem with the starter, if the cranking were limited to a one or two second duration. The injectors are new and the inj. pump was removed during the prep/detail work on the engine. -OR- am I just being a little overcritical of this aspect of reinstallation, ie... just put new oil and filter in as a standard oil change and continue? I do understand about the oil cooler needing to be hooked-up outside of the engine compartment for the complete oil path. Thanks inadvance for your replies.

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Old 09-10-2004, 07:32 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,350
I think I would install the motor, put in oil, and once installed, turn the engine over with someone holding down the stop lever until oil pressure built, if I was worried.
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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Old 09-10-2004, 07:42 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Denver, CO
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That's similar to what I was going to do, once I get my engine installed. I have the injector lines cracked so no fuel will get into the chambers; I'm going to crank it over until I get oil pressure, then seal the injector lines, fire the glow plugs and see if it'll fire up. I also intend to start it initally without the air cleaner installed so if it runs away I can slap a 2x4 over the intake.
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35
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Old 09-10-2004, 09:40 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
You can get a spare tachometer drive and grind the gear off and drive the oil pump to pre-oil the engine if you want -- I might even be able to find the one we used on my brother's 75. The oil pump is driven off the IP shaft, not by a chain on the non-turbo 617.

However, since it was running and it's not gonna start instantly anyway, I'd go ahead and just fill it and crank to start. You will have oil pressure long before it starts, believe me! Probably gonna take a couple battery charges to fire it up.

1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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Old 09-10-2004, 11:19 PM
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Location: Miami, FL
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I also intend to start it initally without the air cleaner installed so if it runs away I can slap a 2x4 over the intake.
A CO2 extinguisher might also be useful, just in case.

Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty

1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf)
1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda)

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