Can alignment just go bad?

[LaughingGravy]

Mt 83 300TD has uneven tread wear on the front. It's definitely a toe-in problem. This started fairly recently. I've not hit a pothole or anything else. To my knowledge nobody has hit me. I'm the only one that drives the car.
I can't do alignment, so it's at a shop today.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

[psfred]

Ball joints on drag link or left tie rod, typically. You will notice that the steering is MUCH tighter once replaced.

It's gradual as the ball joints wear, when it gets bad enough the front tires begin to wear FAST. I put nearly 40,000 miles on my Michelin MVX4 Plus tires, and suddenly I went from a bit more wear on the outside to belts showing in a couple thousand miles. Wore then spare badly in less than a thousand (I do about 450 a week).

I'd replace the steering damper, too, it gets "soft" and allows side forces to "bang" the ball joints and this is what usually wears them out.

I just did all this on the 300D -- remarkably quiter, no "road roar" that was actually a loose tie rod and bad drag link (I replaced both tie rods, drag link, and damper, although I think the tie rods were fairly new -- left one was improperly installed and loose, so I tossed it).

Peter

Peter

[Mr. FancyPants]

Speaking of outside-of-tire ware, I have also got this too, amongst many many other items, as Brian here can attest! See the many many other posts I've either created, or posted in, it is why I call it my "hobbie" once again!

Brian and others have been instrumental in good advise, and I might just try the portable air tank with reg. (I have) to fool the ALDA Brian.....Anyway, I had bought a set of ball joints, but when I replaced my front brake pads (ceramic by the way leaves zero black dust) the thump I'd hear and feel going over a rough road stopped. The old worn pads (to metal) allowed the brake cylinder pad retaining assembly (has two rods that extend outward as pads wear) where both sides were fully extended were banging on every bump.

But haven't yet determined the state of the ball joints! The right joint creeks a bit so it is probably time!

Looking at this type of suspension, unlike some I've done ball joints on, Volvo's are easy, it looks like I need to compress the coil-springs to have at it, and also a press to get'em out. Might as well do lower control arm bushings too while I've gone to this degree!

Steve............

[psfred]

Yeah, Volvo 740s are a breeze, knock the control arm off and take out two bolts, you're done.

Is the ball joint on the lower control arm or the steering knuckle? I dont' remember. If on the control arm, yes you need an internal (Klann) type spring compressor. with it, this is an easy job. without it, you risk killing yourself when the spring pops out.

Peter

[Mr. FancyPants]

Originally Posted by psfred

Yeah, Volvo 740s are a breeze, knock the control arm off and take out two bolts, you're done.

Is the ball joint on the lower control arm or the steering knuckle? I dont' remember. If on the control arm, yes you need an internal (Klann) type spring compressor. with it, this is an easy job. without it, you risk killing yourself when the spring pops out.

Peter

Raining heavily here this afternoon, nothing else to do, and I must be loosing it! Thought it was Brian who posted above!

Peter, I cant remember if I've done a 7XX as I've had a few of them, but recently I had a 90 240 wag, and they were too simple, even easier than you describe the 740!

Steve...........

[whunter]

A link to my new post on DIY alignment tools.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=713544#post713544