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300SD vacuum problem
1980 300SD #1 There is a black and green vacuum line that goes thought the firewall just to the side of the brake booster. It passes through the wall at the same place as the power door lock's yellow lines. The question is what does this line go to? It has a leak in its system somewhere in the passenger compartment. Question #2 is what does the vacuum control valve on top of the rear of the ip do? This seems to have a vacuum leak in it, but the transmission shifts fine. #3 The black and blue check valve at the fire wall connecting the vacuum source to the door locks yellow line is broken. Is there a generic check value that I can buy from NAPA or local parts stores? The price on this site is good (only $8) but I would like to get one tomorrow morning locally. I have read all of the vacuum related threads that I can find and these particular problems are not addressed. At least not that I can find.
Thanks for your help. Slimchance Last edited by slimchance; 10-02-2004 at 02:22 AM. |
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When it is light outside, I'll see if I can determine what some of these lines are by looking at my W123. I am still waiting for my CD manual and I am not that familiar with the W123 yet.
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Steve '87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale '84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving '77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored '08 250EX Ninja English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms. |
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Quote:
Bob Moore 1980 300SD Tarpon Springs, FL |
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I Will Look
If you do not have a answer about the vacuum lines by in the morning send me a email and I will check for you,,,,h16671836@yahoo.com Jim
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James A. Harris |
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Yellow line is for door locks, green with stripe is for the AC system. Most likely problem is bad rubber connectors.
Any vaccum check valve will work, there is a ford one that fits nicely. Make sure you put it in right way round so that it holds vac.... Your door locks will probably start working again, unless you have blown diaphrams. The thing on the back of the IP is the vacuum shutoff, operates via a switch in the back of the keyswitch to stop the engine. The valves on top are the transmission modulator control most likely. To find the leak, you are going to need a MitiVac hand pump -- this will allow you to supply vac with a gauge to any section of the system. $40 at the autoparts store, usually. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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300SD vaccum questions
Thanks for the information. I will get down to the Ford dealer before they close. Is there an area of the climate control where leaking is common or more likely than another (a place to start the search)? I will see if I can find a vacuum diagram on this site. Should the vacuum control valve have a vacuum of 14 ?
The search enlightenment continues. |
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Line to the tranny should be 15-17" at closed throttle, drop instantly to 10-12 when off idle, then gradually to 0 at wide open. You can check this with a "t" fitting and a long vac hose while driving the car.
Supply should be 15-17" with in a minute after startup. Do not ream out the holes in the main vac line, they are restriction orifices, and things won't work right if you open them up. You will have do dive under the dash to find out where the leak is, but the first thing to check is the supply line and switchover valves. If it leaks in the "off" position, you definitly have a bad connector somewhere. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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Quote:
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
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