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#1
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Re 240D manuals...describe your "clutch" behavior...
Do you hold the clutch down while waiting at a light, or wait until the light changes to put your foot on the clutch and shift into gear? How about downshifting? And when you're "between" say second and third, (shifting up or down) please describe your position on the clutch pedal...
Thanks |
#2
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My philosophy is "keep your foot off the pedal as much as possible." Every time your foot is on that pedal, some part is wearing - either the clutch or the throwout bearing.
At a light I try to wait as long as possible in neutral with foot off. But waiting until the light changes to shift into first can be a dangerous thing in a 240D because most people expect you take take off faster than you can. So I try to predict the light change by a few seconds and be ready. Some times it works, some times it doesn't. For downshifting I always double clutch. Clutch pedal down, shift to neutral, pedal up, blip accelerator to match revs, pedal down, shift to lower gear, pedal up. It sounds a lot harder than it is. And never downshift a 240D into first unless you're at a dead stop. First gear in those transmissions is so short you only need it for taking off from rest.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#3
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Neutral and parking brake at a stop. Pop off the brake as I let out the clutch.
I downshift into first while rolling sometimes, it works. My first is not super low. Second and third gear synchros are out to lunch and I have to double-clutch downshifts. I was reading here on the forums about the lube for these transmissions and its affect on the synchros. I will probably try some Redline MT but I think it is too little, too late, in my case. The original recommended lube was Type A automatic transmission fluid. I have not seen any Type A in years. |
#4
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Quote:
Second, double clutching in a synchronized is completely unnecessary. It is kind of a tradeoff to doubleclutch: slightly less syncro wear, more clutch/throwout bearing wear. But, if you insist on it. Double clutching is not hard at all. Ride with any good trucker and they do it like second nature. Edit: sorry,I guess I missed the downshifting part. I was thinking of upshifting. |
#5
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When you double-clutch you don't need to push the clutch all of the way to the floor, just to release.
I don't double-clutch upshifts, but I do have to time them. It is a slow shift. |
#6
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FWIW, Type A ATF is readily available around here. The label shows Gilco Oil Company, Ft. Worth TX. I have no idea if they actually make it or just slap their labels on somebody else's product. The yellow bottles make me think Pennzoil.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#7
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I really like the manual in Cinderella. One of the best I've ever driven and easy to use. I tend to downshift only if needed to speed up again. Otherwise I coast to a stop. For me, brake work is easier than transmission teardown and rebuild.
Neutral at lights always. I do have a bit of a sticky clutch when the car has been parked a long long time. Won't release to shift into gear, and not a matter of pumping up the hydraulics. It pops loose easily though if I start the car in gear with the clutch down. Never happens if the car is used even once a month. I've heard this happens in those little compact tractors, and the trick there is to prop the clutch down with a wood block for storage. Probably wouldn't want to do that with a hydraulic clutch. A five speed grafted into a mint 300D/CD turbo would be just the thing to have......... Ken300D
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-------------------------- 1982 300D at 351K miles 1984 300SD at 217K miles 1987 300D at 370K miles |
#8
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Well...I push the clutch in, put the car in gear, and let it out.
When I upshift/downshift I push the clutch and shift When I get to an intersection I put it in neutral.
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Nick ***** 2002 Sprinter 2500 140" High Roof : |
#9
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This response is for the old 220D/8 that we no longer drive, but would think that there is very little difference in the consequences, as the systems were very similar.
Almost always put the tranny in neutral to wait for a light and sometimes even for a stop sign if it was only 2-way with lots of traffic. Sure couldn't have cared less about the jump and runners behind me that might have had pain over a few tenths of a second quicker getaway!! Never felt the need to double clutch on downshifts and believe me I know when it is needed. Did four years of driving in a stock '29 'A' Ford coupe on Cincy streets in the 60's and always kept up with traffic. The worst was a hard right turn off a 4-lane to a two lane that was tighter than 90deg. All elbows and ...... You get the idea. Also found that shifting into first on the 220D was not a real problem at the correct speeds, which was very unlike the 'A' or the '57 VW we had. Those two really needed to be at a full stop! Was very impressed with the 220D tranny and the smooth shifts up or down, even in below zero F weather. Surely due in part to the ATF that was factory installed. The tranny was never opened the whole time we drove it, and one clutch plate was installed.
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1961 190Db retired 1968 220D/8 325,000 1983 300D 164,150 |
#10
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Quote:
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#11
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Clutch pedal "prop" once a Rolls-Royce SOP...
Chauffeurs being trained to drive the Silver Ghosts and Phantoms were instructed to leave the clutch pedal depressed just a fraction of an inch by using a stick propped against the seat, even if the car were just to be left out of service overnight. Problem was the clutch plate sticking even if a TINY amount of rust formed on it between uses.
A friend's '33 Packard had the same problem with rust forming on the clutch plate...once we broke it loose, adopted the "stick" trick, and no more problems. Have double-clutched on '50s MGs and also on some American cars from the '20s, before synchromesh. Nice to know some vanishing skills. How many out there still know the unique method of driving a Model T? |
#12
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ATF Type A
I see it at convenience store / gas stations. In particular there is an ex-Texaco (now Shell) chain called Handsome Hanks which always has it on the shelf.
__________________
Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#13
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Guess I'm old school. Only partially back on the foot throttle for shifting both directions - trying to match rpms. As much clutch as I need to shift - rarely all the way in. Rarely use the clutch for pulling out of gear - it pops out under slight pressure when the foot is lifted - we called it breaking torque in the trucks. And gently roll in the foot throttle until the gear faces hit. Most of the time I drive when I drive - my hands, feet, and mind are too busy for other stuff.
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daBenz - 1970 220D |
#14
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When I come to a stop I push it in neutral without the clutch when I let off the gas. It saves wear and I'm lazy.
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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots) 5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others) 5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick) 5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k ) 5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest) 0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it) |
#15
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When I am 1st in the queue at red light, I just keep clutch depressed with the car in 1st gear ... I dont like when other motorist honk at the back. When I am behind in the queue I just dont care .. but mostly in neutral and clutch fully up
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