240D self leveling, ya or na
 

I bought a 5 speed Euro 240D the other day and it has the "trailer package", which must mean I can now tow my "26" Airstream, with the matching wheel covers :D Right? Do they really tow things in Europe with a 240, heavy enough to need self leveling :eek: Anyway after much deliberation, help, and archive reading Ive come too the concolusion that I could 1) convert to reguler shocks and rear springs (I have a 300D doner car & lift availble) or 2) get the system going with new air cells as it SEEMS the struts are OK, (not leaking). My first inclanation is to get the self leveling system going, its there so fix it, right? Then I ask myself, WHY? There may be other things wrong and what value is a self leveling system in a 240 anyway? Anyone have any coments as I would like to do this one way or the other on Fri.

3. None of the above.

I still think you should sell the motor and trans to me so's ya don't have to worry about the funny suspension thing. ;)

Probibly for some rich farmer carrying his livestock to market in the backseat and trailer.......at 5mph .

I'd keep it simple...you don't NEED self leveling...
 

Self leveling was a feature on '55 and '56 Packards...on the way home from grade school each day we used to "ride" the bumpers of those we found parked up-and-down until we killed the batteries...great sport!

I would have to agree with jseries and just pull the engine. I have a big brute 6.9 and heck the previous owners of my car spent 8 grand on it in mechanicals and hydraulics alone. (but still puts a smile on my face to put the hammer down :D ). An economical 240d with expensive hydraulics is German irony. Perhaps it was used as an around town taxi for Oktoberfest? Four drunken passengers and two barrels of beer in the trunk!?

Out of curiosity....what are the gear ratios of that 5 speed? Does the 5 produce a higher top end speed (as opposed to the four) or do you just get more closely spaced gears?