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#1
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Replaced Tie Rods
I replaced the tie rods on my '85 300D (123) this weekend. I thought I would post a few tips from the view point of an average DIY'er in case someone like me decides to attempt this repair for themselves.
The tie rods are really tough to get off. I purchased a compact car pitman arm puller which is still a little to wide to fit perfectly but works o.k. You definitely need the help of this tool (unless there are better tools I don't know about); however, the tool alone isn't enough. The tool doesn't always push straight down on the threads. It usually slips to the side a little because it doesn't fit like it should. As a result, you will need to apply other means of force to remove the tie rods. First I applied a lot of PB blaster. Then, I tightened the tool down until it was very tight. On some of the tie rods, I smacked them with a hammer until they popped loose. On others, I used a crow bar to pry them loose (while applying pressure with the tool still). And still on others, I heated them with a torch. I think I thought it would be a little easier than it was to do. I hadn't read any posts talking about this kind of trouble. Maybe other better DIY'ers know better ways to get them off easier. I just wanted to post my experience as an "average" DIY'er and hope it will help others like me who decide to tackle this job. Again, it isn't really tough, you just have to be persistent. Scott
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Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold) |
#2
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I agree they can be real SOB's to get off. There is a tool that slips between the steering knuckle and the tie rod and uses a screw to press it out rather than to wedge it appart like the pickle fork does. Bon't have one and never used it however but has seen pictures.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#3
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This is the tool you need
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#4
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Quote:
Scott
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Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold) |
#5
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Yep , thats exactly what I had in my mind. Wished I had one too, would have been far easier than wailing way on a pickle fork witha BFH.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#6
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I forgot to add one thing to my first post:
Make sure the tie rods are the same length as the old one when you put them back on. After you install them, have the front of the car up in the air and put both tires back on. You then need to look at the tires and make sure they are pointing straight. You can make adjustments to the tie rods after they are installed by simply twisting the shaft in either direction. You will need to do this to get your wheels pointing straight ahead or there is no way you will even be able to drive your car to the alignment shop. Ask me how I know. Scott
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Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold) |
#7
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I set the steering wheel centered. Then adjust tie rods with a string stretched from front to rear tires. That gets you close enough to drive a few days till alignment shop can get you in.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#8
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Thanks for the tooltip; as I still have this job looming, I ordered one for myself.
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#9
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I have found this tool useful for setting toe to spec.
Toe alignment tool
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79 240D my current toy 42 years a Diesel addict 240D sold 250SE sold 220D sold 280C sold 280S sold 300D (2) sold 300CD sold 300DT sold 300SD sold 380SL sold |
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