![]() |
|
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
I Need Help With An Engine Change!!!
Hey everyone,
I am going to try to put another engine in my 1985 300sd. The first one overheated. I need to know if there are any special tools I will need, I have heard there are some strange allen keys that will be needed. Is it okay to lift the engine by the tabs at the front and back. Someone told me they can break off. DOES ANYONE HAVE A STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE FOR SWITCHING OUT THE MOTOR? Should I remove the transmission with the engine? When I have the thing appart what else should I do to make my future with this car easier? Thanks for all the help. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
use the search, but the lifting tabs are just that, you lift the engine and trans out together. That's the only way I've done it, but I don't see why you couldn't do just the engine. You need an engine leveler or tilter to take both out together, preferably better than the one I have.
__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
I have found that it is way easier to take the engine/tranny out together. You will want a load leveler because the engine/tranny have to be close to a 45 degree angle to get them out of there.
__________________
Jim |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
UM.....I am sure you thought about this already but don't use the old radiator...if it overheated you have an issue that needs to be addressed or you will do it again.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I have only done this once. I did not need any special tools. I agree with the engine and transmission coming out together, that is how I did it. Take the hood up to the full upright position, and put the car back on the ground before you pull it out, with the transmission dangling down in back, you have to raise the hoist up quite high to get the thing out of the engine compartment. Don't forget to unplug the wires out from the transmission, and make sure to disconnect the throttle at the firewall. have fun.
__________________
andy t '78 300d '95 volvo 850, wagon '86 300sdl - engine out, maybe I'll have it rolling by June whole bunch o' bicycles |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
there's lots of hints. I can think of only a few at a time. Disconnect starter wiring on body, leave wires on starter alone. Starting yesterday, soak the connection between the turbo outlet and exhaust pipe. Pipe can be held up and out of the way with a single bungee cord. Remove the single large bolt under the engine mount, not the top 2. Remove the radiator (of course) and put a thick sheet of cardboard against the condensor because you want to use every cm of room you have. Putting a small floor jack under the trans allows you to lower it somewhat to remove the neutral switch. Be real careful to get it "unlocked" before you pry it out. Take digital pictures. Heater tube can be disconnected at head side only and pulled through the firewall. You cannot be too careful about avoiding getting crud in trans cooler lines. If you swap, push a 1/4" polyethylene tube through it to make sure there is not chips lodged inside. Blowing air through is NOT sufficient.
__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
On mine, I just took the engine out. This is the only way that I have done it, but now that I look back on it, it would have probably been easier to take both the engine and transmission out together. What really got me were the bolts holding the flywheel to the torque converter. Its not so much getting those bolts out, its getting them back in. Takes a lot of time, not very hard though. If you have any real specific questions, I would probably know them. Also, I didnt use a 'engine leveler' which is definatly a good idea.
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
The engine leveler isn't necessary at all if you take out the engine alone. The engine/trans together CAN be taken out without a leveler, but it's rough on you and the car (I'll never do THAT again
![]()
__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I have removed the engine alone and the engine/trans assembly together. Easier to remove and reinstall the engine/trans assembly as one. Especially with the install. lI picked up a lift/leveler at Harbor tools cheap. Works ok.
Drain the trans and the torque convertor first. Much lighter that way and gives you the opportunity to change that old fluid and trans filter the easy way. Get a Haynes - most basic tool yet. There are a zillion bolts in there, take your time to get them all. Especially with the stuff mounted to the transmission, lines, wires, tubes, ... I removed the radiator and cut a piece of plywood to protect the ac condensor. Worked well. Hope you have a real good torque wrench. Lots of aluminum there, should all be have a torque wrench used, or risk accidental thread stripping. Last note here, the motor mounts give everyone fits. There is an allen bolt accessed throught the engine cradle, it gets real stuck. I could not break it loose. Finally used an electric impact, it is not as strong as a pneumatic, and rattled on it until it would twist out. Then used anti sieze when bolting back in. |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|