Just a bit of good news to share..........

First - I would like to thank BoostnBenz for the thread he started back in 2002 which went into great detail.

Removal and Re-Install went very smooooth.....

Re-soldered everything - now works as it should.

Another happy day!!!!

So far the soldering iron has fixed both the Cruise Control and the ACC module.

Life is good...................

Stephen

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98 K2500 Suburban 6.5 Luxo Barge

"We cannot change the wind - But we can adjust our sails"

How about a link? Inquiring minds want to know!

Danny

Stephen, good to hear. I had to do the same with my unit not long after purchasing the car.

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85 300CD
83 300TD
78 240D (daughter)

Stephen, nice job! I need to do the exact same thing to stop the unit from running the compressor in economy mode.

Any tips on what size soldering iron you used?

You know...... The whole thing about posting the link was first and foremost on my mind when I originally created the post.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=86958&highlight=climate+control+unit


Brian.... Anything that is low wattage - say under 50 watts - with (and this is the important part) a fine point tip!!!! I have a Weller Soldering Station that would most likely be cost prohibited for the DIY crowd. Way back when in days of old, my father had his own custom electronics manufacturing company - I was sucking solder smoke before I was a teenager.

Radio Shack would be your best bet. Did I mention to get a FINE POINT TIP.

This seems to look good - http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?MSCSProfile=745D84CBF04D14A48AA6FF9C89D722C0BA68C1B04FE384678A5285FCD6E056B17AF21627FDAB E316B90B3C038D68EBD6B7F9F3BD1712EAA9951ACB2590A05C6517EFE46941FEFDD1985D4EFD6321F5E70B4DE9B6C1D45512 DCD9FB3DBCACB9478026FADA636151372668840BB72B257DD3CC6B8DC1A2D4117F7E083F34CE6A61FE79AEE89F5561F7&cookie%5Ftest=1&catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=64-2184

Tear apart some old radio or anything and mess around with the soldering iron on something that is scrap. You will need a very dense sponge, or something, so you can wipe off the tip - (oh - by the way - If I haven't mentioned it yet - you will need to get a 'Fine Point Tip'.

More to come if needed - I'll be glad to hold a class.......

Stephen

P.S. *** F. P. T. ***

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98 K2500 Suburban 6.5 Luxo Barge

"We cannot change the wind - But we can adjust our sails"

I used that thread to resolder mine, but I haven't tried to use it yet. My ACC was bypassed when I got the car, and I haven't connected it back yet to see what happens. My fan wiring has been dorked with also and my aux pump is disconnected, so it could be quite the project.
I just resoldered the two side pieces, and the board facing up in the pictures. Nothing else in there is there?

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Stephen,

Many of the previous postings indicate that the junctions holding the three boards together are likely the real trouble spots. Could you tell where the problems were on your boards, or was it just a general deterioration of the solder joints?

I currently have a good set in the car, but the original board set has several badly scorched traces on the main board. Seems like it may have been due to an external failure, but have not tested to see if it might have been the aux water pump. Will probably try to use jumper wire to replace the tracings at some point, as these are really low density boards and easily worked on.

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

JimmyL - Lycoming-8 - All it did was to re-solder everything on that one main board - I have learned that I cannot rely on visual inspection only - Case in point was the Cruise Control Module - Total time invested from removing the ashtray to installing ashtray was 90 minutes.


JimmyL - Best of luck to you on the rebuild - They say patience is a virtue.

Stephen

P.S. - I did figure out the wiring for the speaker fader control and have now since bypassed it. Installed a AM/FM/CD unit recently.

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98 K2500 Suburban 6.5 Luxo Barge

"We cannot change the wind - But we can adjust our sails"

I have to ask...how much is a "cheap" soldering iron that can do this job?

I'm looking at a similar problem, but all I have is a 100 watt soldering gun...

Also, how difficult is it to work on circuit board? I've never tried before...my soldering experience is limited to soldering wire connections and coax cable ends...

Thanks!

Check the Radio Shack link above in one of my posts...
Your looking at a $20.00 investment.

Also - tear apart an old radio, TV, VCR, etc. and practice on something of no value.

I don't know if I mentioned this - but - you want to get a Fine Point Tip

All you need to do is to reheat the pads long enough to melt the existing solder(re-flow) and add just a little tiny tiny tiny bit of fresh solder. If your used to a solder GUN - then you are probably using a rather large diameter solder. When you get the new iron - pick up some thin stuff.

Stephen

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98 K2500 Suburban 6.5 Luxo Barge

"We cannot change the wind - But we can adjust our sails"

Absolutely, positively do NOT use a soldering "GUN" on ANY, ANY electronic repair. Firstly, they generally have a transformer built into the body, and leak AC current. Secondly, they are generally not grounded properly and this alone promotes static electricity which can destroy or (even worse) weaken semiconductor electronics. Thirdly, 100W is WAY too much.

You'd be better off getting a $6.00 pure resistance soldering iron from Radio Shack.