I went to start the car and it would not start. so I popped the hood and bridged the starter
solenoid. “ Old ford style before the starter” the car started and lurched forward, Duh it was in drive. I managed to get in the car and put it in park after applying the brake.
I look up to see that both my temp and fuel gauge are not working, I figure I’ll fix that when I get home. I put it in reverse, back out, put it in drive, and push the accelerator
And no go the RPM slightly raises but nothing else. So I pull over pop the hood and look.
I push the accelerator rod at the IP. No go, same as at the peddler. All the eternal accelerator rods are working; I can see the rod turning in the IP. So I ‘m pretty sure I’m
Going to have to pull the IP. Is this a replace only situation? Or is there a way to fix this?
I’ve rebuilt bug motors so I’m not a complete novice to things mechanical

how old are the fuel filters.....................

can't see how what you did could cause a problem.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Tangent,

Probabaly the reason the starter wouldn't crank the engine is because the shift lever was in Drive and the nuetral switch was doing its job.

But I don't see what you did could cause the engine not to rev up.

I would first check the fuses to see if you could have caused a short that burned any fuses out.

If anything is wrong with the IP, It can be fixed at an injection pump shop instead of replaced.

I don't understand what you mean by you can see the rod turning in the IP and push the accelerator rod at the IP, no go.

P E H

It started and revved
The fuel filters are good
Now I’m scared to drive it because I don't
know if it will happen again
If some one can post a good pic of an IP
I can show P E H and every one else what I’m
talking about with the rod in the IP

You need to take a look (engine off, please!) and verify that the link on the IP is moving to the full throttle position. Also check to see that the vac line from the intake to the IP is attached on both ends and that the butterfly in the intake is working, as you probably have a vacuum governor. Should still get full throttle, though.

Make sure the parking brake is off.....

You don't have any gauges because you left the ignition off when you got out, I'd bet....

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Gauges are working again
I’m pretty sure I don’t have a vacuum governor
It’s a 1977
The throttle goes to the full position
It was like something in the IP broke or was not catching
Tuesday when I wake up I’m going to drive it around
the block to see if it happens again

Maybe it was a fluke because it has not reoccurred