The clutch on my 1977 240D is slipping when going up hills. I searched for information on replacing the clutch disk—no luck.

Is this a job for someone more used to doing their own oil changes? Could not find any DIY pages.

Need to fix so I can sell the car (and keep harmony in the household).

Purchased a 1981 300SD (97K) Saturday. No rust, cherry interior, records. A/C does not work.

Thanks!

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Anders

1995 E300
2015 VW TDI Sportwagen 15K
1977 240D (197K)
2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon (115k) (Wife's)
Gone but not forgotten:
2005 Buick LeSabre
1998 C230
1984 300D
1983 240D
1981 300SD
1974 240D
1974 Fiat 124 Spider
1968 Triumph TR250

andersbenz,

First you should make sure that the hydraulic clutch release is not holding the clutch partially released. If you have play at the top of the pedal stroke, it is probably OK. The usual wear pattern is that as the clutch plate wears, the pedal goes farther to the floor to release the clutch.

Replacing the clutch is a lot of wrenching, all from under the car. So you will have to jack up that car safely unless you have access to a lift ot grease pit. First you have to remove the driveshaft, then the transmission. You will probably need help to R&R the transmission because of the weight.

Once the transmission is out, you remove the clutch release arm and unbolt the pressure plate and slide it out the bottom of the bell housing. The clutch friction plate now can be removed out the bottom of the bell housing also.

The parts to replace are the clutch plate and pressure plate. Its probably a good ideal to replace the release bearing also.

This is just a general description and a manual should be consulted for more detail.

You will also have to rebuild the cylinders in the hydraulic clutch release circuit if they start to leak which sometimes happens when they are disturbed.

The job is more manual labor than intellectual.

P E H

It's a pretty straightforward job, just need to get the car up high enough to get the tranny out. If it's an alum housing, you can do it yourself (the cast iron one can be done by one person too, I did two of them this year, but help would make it WAY easier.)

You might check the clutch master cyl though. Had one car that the spring inside the cyl had broken into pieces and the cyl was jamming and holding hyd pressure to the slave. Eventually, this will wear the clutch out and you'll have both to replace. You just might check that first. Just make sure it goes in easy and releases all the way. If so..., it's a clutch job.

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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

Thanks Tom & P.E.!

Anders

__________________
Anders

1995 E300
2015 VW TDI Sportwagen 15K
1977 240D (197K)
2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon (115k) (Wife's)
Gone but not forgotten:
2005 Buick LeSabre
1998 C230
1984 300D
1983 240D
1981 300SD
1974 240D
1974 Fiat 124 Spider
1968 Triumph TR250

The hydraulic master/slave problem is quite notorious on the 240D, my 1983 240D suffered greatly from this problem, the hydraulics had to be changed twice and the clutch too had to be changed. MB techs acknowledged this problem but couldn't find a solution then, the later model OM 616 had bigger 235mm clutch which did solve the problem of hydraulic failure.

The throwout bearing.

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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others)
5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k )
5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest)
0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it)