I just bought a 85 300sd with the intention of running it on vegetable oil. As I'm researching the subject, a number of references to the differences between IDI and DI are cropping up. Which one is my car? Am I in trouble with Veggie oil one way or another? If I am, anyone want to buy or trade with me for a car that works better with veggie oil? Should I save these questions for a veggie-diesel site?

Other unrelated questions in random order:

Can I drive the car from 0mph in the 2nd and 3rd auto tranny settings?

How do I troubleshoot a non functioning radio antennae? Can I just yank it up or do I have to get the mechanics functioning? I just want to listen to the radio, I'm not so concerned about it going up and down.

Anyone know where I can get a cheap driver's seat (light tan/cream colored) that isn't spent?

Is a new AC unit difficult to install?

Is it better to to go easy on acceleration when the engine's still cold?

Any rust treating advice? It's just around the rockers.

Thanks. I'm sure I'll think of more!
Alex

Alex, I'm sure more people will chime in, but I'll answer a few of your questions.

I'm going to convert my SD soon also - it would be hard to find a better car to convert.

Using 2nd or 3rd only stops the trans from shifting up. The first one down from drive disallows 4th gear. The next one down disallows all gears except 1st - no further shifting. It won't hurt anything, but you can't go anywhere in just 1st gear.

Go easy on acceleration while the engine is cold

What part of the AC unit? The control units are available rebuilt as are compressors. If you have a leaking condensor, it can be a mess to replace.

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1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer

If memory serves me right, the MArch or April edition of 'Car and Driver' has an article on the subject (it was definitely earlier this year). Maybe that can give you some answers on vegetable oil!

THE CAR CAME WITH WHAT I BELIVE IS AN EXTRA COMPRESSOR. MY MECHANICAL EXPERIANCE IS LIMITED, SO I'LL INVESTIGATE FURTHER AND INQUIRE THEN. PROBABLY NOT 'TILL IT GETS HOT OUT!
THANKS,
ALEX

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1984 190d 5 speed manual

By the way,

Your car is IDI, Just to let you know.

Some will disagree, but I'd say only plug it in if it becomes hard to start. If it cranks right up, let it idle for a few seconds, then drive gently until warm - that's the best way to warm it up and that's what the manual recommends. There's not really more wear when cold, but the oil needs to warm up to flow better and as the engine gets hotter, the fuel burns more completely. Everything with oil needs a little time to warm up before it operates perfectly - transmission, etc... In Montana, where I used to live (without a diesel), on really cold days - below minus 30 - once the car started, you couldn't get the transmission to go into gear until the car warmed a little. The shocks felt like they had concrete in them and everything was stiff - the seat felt like plywood.

If the car is only driven for short distances and never warms, you'll want to change your oil more frequently as the stray fuel and water particles never get a chance to vaporize out of the oil and it gets contaminated quickly.

__________________
1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer