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So Just what do you put in your tank?
So many additives, so many varriants of fuel, mix of ATT some even use vegtable oil?
There has to be a lot of combinations. Many are very effective for power and long life. Anyone care to share what they use and outcome I use tectron diesel and an occasional additive like lubramolly. No problem with starts, mileage OK, better if I don't floor it from every stop. |
#2
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I put a a quart or two of filtered used motor oil, and about the same ammount of used ATF...
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#3
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I'm pretty sure the fuel gauge on the dash and the sticker on the filler door both say "diesel fuel only." That pretty much says it all. Nothing personal, but I don't understand why people buy diesel cars and trucks and obscess about what kind of other junk they can dump into the tank. Injection pumps are high-precision instruments, so I wouldn't play games. Besides, there is absolutely no proof whatsoever that used motor oil or ATF help fuel mileage or lubricate anything. Think of the junk that is in used motor oil... And does anyone actually KNOW what ATF consists of?
The only exceptions are anti-gel for those of us living in cold climates and maybe biodiesel purchased at a reputable dealer. Do some research on veggie oil and you'll realize you need special components and special operating procedures - it isn't a direct replacement for diesel fuel. Just use diesel fuel and protect the pump with a good filter and water separator. Save you money for things that count. GregS |
#4
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c-tane booster,diesel fuel cataylist,anti-gel when i go to cold climates for the weekend,diesel,and hopefully someday biodiesel
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
#5
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ok, GregS has one perspective....
but you'll find that plenty of diesel owners do appreciate the suitability of other fuels that share the compression ignition capability diesel fuel has. Vegetable oils, mineral oils, kerosene, anti-gels, biodiesel, etc. These things will all explode just like diesel, and if properly filtered and at injected at a viscosity similar to diesel fuel, there is nothing keeping you from using them. biodiesel works well for me. I've used b100 and blends. I've also converted a 300SDL to run on Straight Veggie Oil, which I got from a taco shop up the street. They changed oil every day, so it was pretty clean stuff. I filtered it to 2 microns (anal) and ran it in a second, heated tank that I put in the cavernous trunk. I've since sold that car, and now drive two wagons that will get a conversion sooner or later... this place is a great resource for bio-blends: http://biodiesel.infopop.cc
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Cannondale ST600 XL Redline Monocog 29er 2011 Mini Cooper Clubman 2005 Honda Element EX www.djugurba.com www.waldenwellness.com |
#6
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I am an avid veggie user, and I do agree with GregS. In my opinion, there is a great potential for harm just dumping vegetable oil into the tank. I know many run unheated tanks and have success, but that still doesn't change my opinion. The trick is, though, that a properly designed oil system, filled with properly filtered oil, is not at all detrimental (and perhaps beneficial) to the cars injections system. I feel like if you aren't going to go to the trouble of installing a properly designed system, you are most likely better off sticking with diesel. Or at the very least don't blame the vegetable oil if you do have a problem.
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Keep everything as simple as possible-but no simpler--Albert Einstein |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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I add PowerService (8oz.) and BioGuard (0.5oz) to each tank. In the CD, I get 26-27mpg in the summer and 29-30 in the winter, all city driving. The 240D does 1 or 2 better on average, but that's the gf's vehicle and I don't really keep up with its mpg like I do the CD.
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1982 Mercedes-Benz 300CD 1982 Mercedes-Benz 240D - stick |
#9
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Drop it off at a public recycle center or a local quickie-lube or garage, which is where used engine oil belongs. Why put it in a piece of high quality mechanical equipment? If you just want to experiment or otherwise dispose of waste oil, then so be it, but preface your statements, because others who are new to diesels and not educated on them will take your statement and think its a good practice. This is how all these bad rumors start in the first place. I hope the original poster gets the point that proper care of one of these great machines involves only a couple things - diesel fuel, maybe anti-gel, and good filters (particularly a fuel filter/water separator unit).
Greg |
#10
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Hear you loud and clear GregS and I agree with you. I am amazed at all the stuff that can be placed in these cars and have them still function, which really is the purpose of my post. As many have mentioned , however, the process can be complicated. I may be wrong but, I am not sure anyone can speak to the longevity issue using these products better than those that have run diesel/ occasional additive, and clean filters.
From what I can tell the practice of alternate fuel use and dumping additives/other gunk is not usually started on day one of a new MB diesel. That ought to tell you something. Then again as I have said I stand amazed at what CAN be used.. |
#11
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If I'm not mistaken, Rudolph Diesel designed his engine to run on vegetable oil. Doesn't mean MB designed theirs to. However- with that said, I WILL dump a gallon of straight clean veg oil+Power Service silver bottle in my tank during the warm weather months with every other fillup. It gets expensive since veg oil where I'm at is $5 a gallon at its cheapest, but the engine seems to love it, with more power and less noise, seriously. Exhaust smells like fries. When it gets cold though, I will use only antigel and cetane boost. Water separators are not absolutely necessary. If they were, since the w123 is so well designed in the first place it stands to reason they would have fitted it with one from the factory as original equipment. It would be nice to have one, but I don't exactly know what observable benefit one would gain from installing one furthermore I don't know how to go about spec'ing and pricing one for my particular application. That may be a good future upgrade idea. How much do they cost? How difficult is the installation process? What observable benefit is obtained?
I'd never put used motor oil in my tank though. Stuff's too filthy. Metal particles and soot and who knows what other crap. No way Jose. Makes more exhaust smoke. Recycle the oil like a normal educated person.
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'02 BMW 325i '85 300D 450k '93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree) '08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k '06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold) |
#12
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Water Separator
I know a VW tech and he told me he has NEVER gotten more that 4 drops of water out of a VW TDI water separator. I agree with Delano, has his facts right. I run WVO and PS in my tank. More power, quieter, less smoke. Maybe if the fuel was better we may not need additives.
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1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles..... Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner 2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles... 1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/ Anthracite Velour 260,512 miles (Eva) 1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex 4 Speed Manual 84,213 miles ???? Haus Frau 2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling) Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit |
#13
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__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#14
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I put a little diesel in my tank the other day and watched the dollars clicking by for a while. You can have it.
/sarcasm Tell the military it is time to scrap their fake multi fuel vehicles too and quit lying about it. /end sarcasm |
#15
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Quote:
Right now I'm running B40 with winterizers (it's COLD here), and my car is running great where straight #2 is jelling.
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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
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