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#1
12-11-2004, 03:45 PM
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Another dreaded Sunroof thread... :eek:
Another dreaded Sunroof thread...
 Sorry... I have read the threads till I am blue in the face, and haven't found what I am looking for. My sunroof won't budge, it is closed. The motor functions with the switch, there is resistance when I put the 17mm on the motor socket. Seems like the cable is still hooked up... Where do I go from here?  I am reluctant to screw up the headliner, and I dont want to end up with a leak in the rainy season. Amybody ever replace with the afore-mentioned manual? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Think Alternative Energy!  300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) 
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#2
12-11-2004, 04:14 PM
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Mine was the same way. In restrospect it seemed that when I put a socket on the crank in the trunk I too met with some degree of resistance. I kept cranking till the sunroof cracked open a bit, then I used the switch to open it up the rest of the way. I then cleaned the rails off with some carb cleaner and applied new MB sunroof grease. Works great.
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'02 BMW 325i '85 300D 450k '93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree) '08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k '06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)
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#3
12-11-2004, 04:15 PM
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I have definite resistance, it feels "springy", but no amount of cranking results in any movement of the sunroof. Maybe the clutch is slipping like crazy, i dunno...
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)
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#4
12-11-2004, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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#5
12-11-2004, 06:07 PM
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Ouch Doctor,,, however he is correct. Have someone in the trunk manually turning the nut the correct rotation and at the same time use your palm and give it a slight thump at the rear of the sunroof and it should pop down. When we bought our first 240d the owner said she never opened the sunroof for fear it would leak?. Come to find out the switch on the dash was burned out. So I spend 27 bucks to replace it and when I tried to open the sunroof , nothing happened. Thats when I went into neatherthol mode and thump it a couple of times and it popped right open, then the problems began when I thought I would replace the gaskets. The rear and side wipers went fine, the front one mounted on the roof was tough to the point I could not get both darts into the track,, anybody out there experienced this? Howabout you Doc.
82' 240d Suzy 82' 300dt Lizzy Last edited by Bayside30; 12-11-2004 at 06:09 PM. Reason: additons
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#7
12-12-2004, 04:19 PM
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I've beaten on the bloody thing, still no movement.
Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated...
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)
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#8
12-12-2004, 04:57 PM
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Clockwise closes, counterclockwise opens. If you have the tilting roof, it will lift from closed if you crank in the "open" direction.
Something it stuck -- check carefully for evidence of sealant around the roof panel, mine was "glued" shut because it had a broken lift angle. Might also need a clutch adjustment (can't tell you how since I don't know which one it is), and may be stuck with a broken lift angle and simply jammed in place. You can remove the headliner with the roof closed, but I'd do that as a last resort. You can also pop it loose (four plastic clips about an inch back from the front edge of the liner) and push it back. This will let you see what's up in there. To remove, push back then flex down in the center to get it out of the opening. You will likely bend it doing that, though. It will not leak if closed unless the drains are plugged or rusted away, it does not actuallly seal, the "seal" is a fiber faced gasket that eliminates wind noise and most of hte water. What comes through is caught in a tray and diverted down the door pillars. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#9
12-13-2004, 12:32 AM
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The car was painted at some point...
but it doesn't look "glued" Eventually I will just take a sledge to it or forget about it, whatever comes first.... I wonder what would be a good safe way to "cut" around the edge to make sure it isn't stuck somewhere... and thanks folks for your help
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)
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#10
12-19-2004, 09:37 PM
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Same predicament on both my 190D and the wifes 300SD !!! Let me know if you come up with a solution before summer
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1982 300SD (214 k, excellent shape) kidmobile running mostly biodiesel, gets 31 mpg hwy with 2.82 rear from a euro 500SEL 1976 115 body 240D 4-speed (traded for Jeep parts) - Engine lives on in my CJ7
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#11
12-19-2004, 10:06 PM
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I guess I will have to just rip the darn deadliner off, probably ruining it forever. That will really bite the big one if I still can't get it to work, and now have an ugly looking roof.
I wonder, do the 4 door sunroof headliners match the coupes? I know that the parts are different, but if the headliner is not the same size, I will have a hard time finding another.... about as much fun as finding the pass door mirror....not.
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)
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#12
12-20-2004, 08:00 AM
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How about some real soapy, hot water on top of the sunroof? Thump on it a bit from the outside, and maybe the soapy water will get down against the seals. Lots of vehicles have similar problems with seals causing a great deal of resistance, like sliding doors on minivans. Silicone or glycol on the weatherstrip is frequently all that is needed.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck.
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#13
12-20-2004, 12:23 PM
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Been fixen on these things for nye on 30 years now and have probably seen one or two telex cables go South, so I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to take down the headliner. Generally there are 3 things that cause problems. Your clutch is probably slipping. Chisel the flat locking washer away from the hollow hex headed adjuster you see at the motor assy. Turn the nut about 3/4 turn clockwise and relock the tab. If you can get the roof to open, remove, clean and lube the chrome slide rails. Be careful not to try to remove the second screw from the front, because that is an adjusting screw. The third problem is the plastic sliders wear out and need to be replaced. There is a whole procedure on measuring drag with a scale and adjusting properly, but I don't know anyone who does it that way.
Peter
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Auto Zentral Ltd.
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