I'm just wondering how to change the center tie rod or also known as drag link. My passanger steering wheel seems to be a bit loose when the car is on jacks and when I looked at that specific balljoint it seems to be coming out a little bit. The driver side is o.k. since there is no movement. Here is the picture of the part i'm talking about. How difficult is it to change this and any suggestions.. ?? I forgot to mention, it's a 1992 300D 2.5 turbo with 126,000 miles.

By the way, I searched and could not find anything. In that case we need to add another thread that I and someone else will benefit from.

Thanks

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Audi TT

And I thought only airplanes had fully functioning dual controls.....

Changing the center link is a piece of cake. You will need a tie rod separator of some variety. Autozone has a couple types in their loaner tool program. All you have to do is remove the two nuts on the ends, disconnect the steering damper, and use a separator to separate the ends. The Autozone puller works, but the fit is not perfect. It tends to cock to one side, and can gouge the metal fitting, which can later damage the grease seal. The fork type separator is okay if you don't mind destroying the old grease seal.

If the old rod ends stick, leave them under load for a few minutes, then give the receptacle a smart rap with a medium sized hammer. The resulting deformation usually convinces things to let go. Installation should be self evident. Spindles and holes should be clean and free of grease/oil.

The service manual call for 35Nm torque on the on the ends and 45Nm on the steering damper.

This one is easy. Go buy a "pickle fork" ball joint tool, or better yet, the clamp type (must be the "import" one, the domestic one is too big).

Jack up car, put on jack stands. Remove sound panel, remove the bolt for the steering damper, take the 19mm nuts off the ball joints, and either clamp the tool on to drop the tapers out or drive the picle fork in, flat side toward the joint, until the taper pops out. If you use the pickle fork, drive it straight back into the drag link and pitman arm, this puts all the impact on things meant to take it. You will have to use a 5 lbs sledge and put some beef into it.

Insert new ball joints, start nuts, and then hold the shaft with a 6mm Allen against the locknut. Pull up to 50 ft/lbs or better, put the sound panel back on, remove the jackstands, and be amazed at how nicely it drives.

Check the steering damper while it's loose (or just be smart and buy a new one first!) -- if it has any uneven-ness in resistance to motion in either direction, replace it. There is almost no chance it's good, by the way.

Tie rods go in and out the same way, but you MUST adjust the new one to exactly the same length as the old one in order to safely drive the car to the alignment shop.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

thanks guys and thanks LarryBible for sending me that IM

kamil

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Audi TT