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#1
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Long-Shot Picture Request
I realize this is pushing it. Does any one happen to have a picture of the innards of the passenger side electric rear window mechanicals on an 83 or so W123 Coupe?
Mine broke, I got a quote from a boneyard but want to send him pics or he send me so I can be a little confident we are on the same page. I haven't taken mine apart yet and won't be able to for a couple of weeks at least because I need the car. I have no clue what they might look like either. TIA |
#2
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Since you have not taken it apart yet, I think that you might be getting a bit ahead of yourself.
On the SD, there is a plastic sliding piece that allows the arm of the regulator to drive the window up and down. This plastic piece fractures with time and is replaceable for about $2.00 or so. I cannot tell you if the 123 is identical, however, you might save yourself a bit of money if you do not purchase a bunch of parts, in advance. |
#3
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What broke?
On mine, the gears of the assembly got chewed to nothing and the whole unit needed to be replaced. While I was searching for one, a freind picked up another, so I have a spare, I would be glad to photo it for you. But so often, the bolts come loose, something cheap and easy breaks, and you are probably talking $100+ for something you may not need. Take the panel off so you can see what is going on. You can still drive the car around with the window up, and you can better figure out the prob. What if it is just a retaining bolt come loose? If you do need the whole assembly, make sure it is off a coupe only. You would be smartest to bring it in, and match it up, because most junkyards will NOT give you your money back, they will give you trade value at best, and they may never have another part you need again, or only offer it for 3 months, or some other scam. Only pay when you are absolutely sure it is the right one at a bone yard. Also, they will often try to sell you chewed up junk, mashed gears, saying"this is the best condition for this year" Do not bellieve it, you can find excellent condition if you look. (edit): sorry, I didn't catch the "rear" element of your discription. Mine is for the door. If you do figure out how to get at the rear, I would love to see pics myself...
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) Last edited by Jimmy Joe; 12-13-2004 at 08:47 PM. |
#4
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how did it "break". Does window just drop down and seem to not move at all with the motor, or does the motor not operate. Hopefully the former, as that's an easy fix (the $4 part Brian is describing) I fixed mine with one.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#5
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You sparked my curiosity,
here is a link I have found about getting at those pesky rears: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=83243&highlight=rear+window+coupe And you may have pics to follow soon, I need to get at mine...
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) |
#6
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I should have taken some pictures, took the damned thing apart more then three times!
I will give you some warnings before you start: be very carefully with removing the C-pillar panel, if you do it wrong the clips that hold it will break. If I'm wright you have to slide the panel forwards and then pull it towards you away from the C-pillar. You don't have to remove the back seat, but it makes it easier to remove the panel. The panel is tricky; make sure that the silver strip on top stays attached to the panel, it's a ***** to put it properly back in place, if not impossible. Most likely what broke is a little special "washer" that connects the regulator pivot-arm to the metal parts that holds the window. You can get this at the dealer for $2.50. I fixed mine, bought a used one from mercedesdismantlers for $50,- to find out I only needed the $2.50 "washer. It makes sense to open the good side as-well, so you have an understanding how it all works, to just figure it out will cost you days! The regulator in the coupe is a complete different story then the sedan, it's not very repair friendly. Good luck!
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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue). |
#7
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Both of mine give me trouble; i.e. seem as if they are "loose"
and I have ignored them for a long time, but I have a break so, camera in hand, I will dive in this week. Wish me luck, and look here for future explorations
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) |
#8
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If it doesn't rain this weekend, I'll be taking the thing apart and will snap some pics. If I'm lucky it'll be something I can repair easily. Yeah right :-)
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#9
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If it's that little plastic thing, you can try what I did: drill a 5/64" crosshole in the end of the "pin" and insert a cotter. Saves taking the thing out to hit it with a hammer to peen it in place.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#10
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I plan on doing the same this summer. My drivers side rear has to be helped down while pressing the switch and won't go farther than halfway. The passenger side has no response. Gotta be able to put all the windows in a coupe for the summer! I'll defintly be interested in seeing those pictures when you do yours.
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350 |
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