Mine have failed.
I hope to get and install the parts tomorrow.

The rear springs and shims where replaced at the same time..

If you have ABS, watch the tension on the differential speed sensor wire, you can rip it out.
Rear sub frame front bolts must be removed and frame lowered.
Rear drive shaft flex coupling must be disconnected.
I used a ball joint press to remove and install the bushings.

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

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The bushings are on the lower control arm? I am very interested in photos as I have that procedure to do soon. My rear lower control arm is rusted and will need to be replaced in the next 12 months. Photos and text greatly appreciated.

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Alan Hamm
'87 300SDL 277K Miles
'89 560 SL 68K Miles

Good Morning Roy,

Symptom(s) of failure would be immensely valuable.

I'm interested in this too. My rear end is "squirmy", for want of a better word - it just doesn't feel right. On leaf spring vehicles this has always been down to the spring bushings and shackle bushings, so I'm assuming in this case it's sub frame mounts and trailing arm bushings that are shot.

Unless Mercedes uses some form of bushing material unknown to other manufacturers, there's just no way any of them are any good after 175K. Same with the springs, the steel has the same mechanical properties as all other springs and they're just worn out by this mileage.

Kevin

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'85 300SD

I normally would think the same. However, the SDL sits about 2 inches low in the rear and it has 125K on the clock and is 18 years old.

The SD sits dead level, has a tighter feel than the SDL and is 20 years old. It's rear springs are at the same height today as they were when the vehicle was originally manufactured.

Go figure.

Rear control arm R&R requires dropping that side of the subframe to get the outer bolt out.

Jack the wheel free of the ground and apply torque via a lug bolt with the parking brake set. If the wheel moves back and forth, bushings are shot. If not, check to see if the sway bar links are still present, if not, replace.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Steering went squirrelly during deceleration and braking.
Everything is fine under acceleration.
I hit a patch of black ice, feathering the accelerator to maintain control, I felt the trailing arms shifting and flexing.
A twenty inch pry bar between body and trailing arm/bushing area gave me 4mm trailing arm movement.
Close examination of bushing shows the rubber coming out one side.
The outside bushings on both sides are very bad.

Parts got in this afternoon.

from the trailing arms.
All the others are little pieces.

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About what I would have expected.

What is the mileage on the vehicle?

Could we ask for some notes/commentary on the job itself, I think it's in the future for a number of us. Imminent future for me!

Kevin

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'85 300SD

aw c'mon, those bushings had at least a few dozen miles left in them!

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

I agree, this project is in the imminent future for me also.

BTW, those photos of the old parts appear to be on the dining room table.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Are we looking at two separate jobs here - one for trailing arm bushings and another for subframe/diff mount? Or is there a benefit to tackling them both at the same time?

Kevin

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'85 300SD

You have to drop the subframe in order to access the trailing arm bushing hardware so yes, it is a good time to replace subframe bushings.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Genearlly,

Properly designed and manufactured springs have an very very long life.

I would guess your subframe mounts will take care of the ride height. I'd also replace those spring pad spacers that go onto of the springs. They will be VERY hard from age.


Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E