Getting the starter out of a 1983 300D is a real PITA. I changed the one in my 240D last year and it took about 30 minutes. I fought this one for 4 hours and I finally got the old one out, but am waiting for the new one from fastlane.

I used ken300d's method where you use about 2 or 3 feet of extensions, a universal joint, and the 10 mm allen socket. I quickly broke two universal joints trying to get the top bolt out. I ended up using an impact wrench universal joint, an 18 inch breaker bar with a 2 foot pipe on it, and my 200 lbs of fat arse to break it loose. At one point, I even tried heating the bolt head but gave that up when the old oil around the bellhousing started to catch fire.

I've read on this board where people recommend used loctite (red, I think) to keep the starter bolts from coming loose. I'm a bit worried about doing that considering how hard it was to get this one out. If I ever have to take this one out again, I don't want it to be this hard.

Any suggestions?

Joe

It's an aluminum housing and a steel bolt, you don't need Locktite! Without antiseize, the last thing you need to worry about is the bolt coming out!

Just tighten to correct torque, I've never heard of one coming loose.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I had one come loose. I think I just didnt get it tight enough. It was all the way out but It didnt come out. I just tightened it up and havent had any problems since then. I know exactly where you are coming from on 300 starters. I put 3 on in a weekend once. I removed one, put a rebuilt one on, it didnt work, found a used one, it didnt work, found another used one and it worked...for awhile, I ended up buying one from Autozone and had to replace it once but it was free the second time. So how many extensions did you use to get the top bolt out? I use a 10" with wobble headplus another 10 then a 6" wobble then put allen head socket on. I havent done this job in awhile nut it is probably the second worst I have done besides oil cooler lines.

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'85 300 Turbo Diesel- 308K

That job is a real drag.
The allen head socket is the only saving grace.
Getting it out of the hole is a PITA big time.
I must say, though, now that I have done it twice, it does get somewhat easier...

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

I'm not going to use anything on the large starter bolts but I am going to use a very little red loctite on the 2 small 10 mm bolts that hold the front bracket on the starter and then on the 2 10mm that go into the block from that bracket. On this car, the 10 mms that go into the block had backed out about 5 full turns so the front of the starter really didn't have any support.

I believe I used the 10 mm bit, the air hammer universal joint, 2 3 inch extensions, 2 10 inch extensions (all 3/8s) then a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, then a 6 inch 1/2 inch extension, then the 18 inch breaker bar, and 2 foot pipe.

I've wrenched on MB diesels for 15 years now (300sdl, 240d, 300d), and the upper starter bolt is the toughest job I've had.


Joe

Man, don't tell me this, I'm about due a starter..

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One more Radar Lover gone...
1982 VW Caddy diesel 406K 1.9L AAZ
1994 E320 195K

I tried to get mine out once and broke a swivel socket. I gave up and just took it to the dealer. Cost me $435.

Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

I just had a block heater installed on my '76 300D, and in order to install it, the starter had to be removed. My mechanic removed the control arm to make removal of the starter easier. I'm not sure if it was the upper or lower contol arm, but he mentioned there were starter bolts "impossible to get out" without remoing the control arm. Oh yes- and the block heater required that the kick down linkage to the transmission had to be relocated slightly, resulting in shifting problems after. Readjustment of the linkage solved those problems. Block heater was no picnic- no wonder the car is 29 years old and never had one!

Dave

I wonder if Mercedes has a special tool to get the upper starter bolt out on the 300Ds and 300SDs. It might be worth buying one, if available, and sending it around to whoever needs to get their starter out.

Any one know what the dealers use....or perhaps can a tool be made?

Maybe they use a impact wrench with the multiple extensions???

Diesel

The most important tool for the removal of the starter on a W123/W116 chassis 617 is a lift.....

Amazing how much easier it is to work on that particular portion of the engine when you can STAND underneath....

Naturally, who has a lift?

A LONG (24" or better) extension and a swivel usually does the trick. We've only done one on a W115 300D, and that was pain enough. Have to drop the drag link to get the starter out.

I've heard the W201 chassis is a pain, too -- not much room, and the starter has to come out the bottom, will find out in a week or so when I do the "new" 190e.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I've done starters on both turbo and non-turbo 300 d's. In neither instance was disconnection of any suspension component necessary. The wheels must be turned one way or the other to get the starter out and it does not come out in the same place on the turbo and NA but no disconnection is necessary. If you search on my posts I describe somewhere the exact space the starters must go thru on each model.
Also, in an old thread, someone described cutting a hole in the firewall to access the top starter bolt. I considered doing it but tried the long extensions and the bolt came right out. If I was having trouble, I'd cut the hole and put a rubber plug in afterwards.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

loctite actually makes getting the bolt out a lot easier the next time.it protects the thread from seizing due to rust.definately recommend its use.

Rather than digging into the front end parts, just turn the steering wheel a little back and forth, or better yet have a helper turn it EVER SO SLIGHLTY AND GENTLY while you work it out.
It pays to not move the wheel again when you find the sweet spot to put the old one back up there. Take careful note of how the old one comes out. Watch your fingers!
I laid right underneath it and used my chest to support it, if it falls you are in trouble. That is one heavy sucker.

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

On an 83 300d, you just take the steering damper off, which is a 2 minute job, and the starter falls out. You just have to orient it properly first. Turn the starter vertical so that the gear (nose) is up. Then rotate it until the solenoid is facing the back of the car and there is a perfect hole where the steering damper was.

That part was easy. The hard part is removing that damn upper starter bolt.

Joe