|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
E300D Wagon Rear Exhaust replacement
My 94 e300d estate/wagon rear silencer/muffler is getting very rusty and i'd like to replace it. I've not done any exhaust repair before and was wondering if this is a DIY job. I have a inspection pit in my garage so I can get under the car ok, but am wondering how easy a job it is to do yourself and correct way to do it. The current box is joined with a clamp.
If anyone has the part number too that would be helpful.
__________________
1993 320TE M104 --------------------------------------------------- past: 1983 230E W123 M102 1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2) 1967 250SE W108 M129 1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116 1980 280SE W116 M110 1980 350SE W116 M116 1992 300E W124 M103 1994 E280 W124 M104 ---------------------------------------------- "music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I think its a DIY. My uncle and I did an exhaust on a 91 Toyota Previa, including the cat. A torch was very useful to loose all the rusty bolts. On the otherhand, my dad and I used an airgun when replacing a muffler on a 91 civic.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
I replaced exhaust systems on several cars and it is definitely a DIY job. The only catch is sometimes the new system will take a little fiddling with to get together right and you may need to bang the parts together with a soft hammer. What you don't want to do is start banging really hard on the exhaust while it is attached to the manifold or you'll risk cracking the manifold. What I do is soak the joints of the old system with WD-40 for a couple of hours before I start. Then remove the system at the furthest point forward (sometimes you need to take it apart to get it off) and pull it out from under the car. If it's stuck, heating with a torch and/or tapping with a hammer will usually get it off unless it's really rusted. Lay the old system on the floor (in two pieces if you have to) then test fit the the pieces of the new system next to it. Pay particular attention to the length and the relative positions of the attachment points. Also note the "twist" or relative angle of the pieces as well. If the new system goes in in one piece the rest is easy. If not then put the front section in first and wiggle/tap the rest in place. Remember, it's best to use a soft hammer or at least a block of wood between the exhaust and hammer to avoid denting or scraping it. It's actually a pretty easy job.
__________________
LRG 1987 300D Turbo 175K 2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul 1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|