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  #16  
Old 01-16-2005, 06:24 PM
oilburninokie
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rattle

I had a rattle from the right front end and it turned out to be loose shock absorber bolts. I don't think this is your problem since it clunks when hard braking, but it is an easy thing to check before replacing items.

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  #17  
Old 01-17-2005, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenknots
Thanks for all the guidance. I checked underneath today (with stiff cold fingers) and didn't see anything obvious. But after reading all I could on the subject, I'm nearly sure it's guide rod mount. Please, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. This job isn't too technically challenging, but it can be a bit of a struggle. The ball joints are easier, IMHO. And just to be clear, DO NOT remove the coil springs, that's NOT necessary.
For those who have done it, a few questions.

Where is the best place to support the car? The frame rails several inches inside of the front jack points. The large bracket that crosses underneath? Not this, you want to remove this to do the guide rods. I have jack stands but I want to know the best place to put them so they're not in the way.

I'm not real clear on how to get out the large rubber mount. Does the entire bracket have to be removed, or is the mount removeable without doing that? These can get really stuck in there with rust and crud. Wish I had the arbor press I have now when I did this job. So, I think you take the whole bracket out. Before you take the joint out, count the # of threads exposed before the adjustment sleeve. That's where you want to set the new joint. There seems to be some bolts that will be hard to get to without removing the bracket. Someone mentioned having the bracket out and pounding out the mount. Is that the best way? I don't know where you are located, but if it's anywhere near the rustbelt I'd say yes. Again, a press would be a big help. Put a good penetrant on the bolts that mount to those captive nuts inside the slots in the body. Do this several times, starting yesterday. If the sheet metal on the square captive nut breaks off, you'll have to hold it somehow. I made a tool that reaches in the slot and holds it. I sent it to leathermang to start a tool loaner program. But if you are going to do this on a weekend or short time, I would remove these first, one at a time and reinstall with never sieze to make sure they don't break off and leave you stranded 1/2 way through the job

Is there anything else that I'll already be halfway to that I should go ahead and do (assuming a short, cold weekend in which to do them)?I think the guide rods are enough Nothing else looks bad or loose and the car handles fine with the exception of the clunking guide rod.

Thanks for all your help!
good luck
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  #18  
Old 01-17-2005, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmaysob
if your talking about guide rod mounts you are wrong,the oly thing that would require removing the spring is the lower control arm.
I have seen it done without compressing spring, but it is safer to have spring secured , just in case.
I believe it is the technique suggested in the MB service manual.
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  #19  
Old 01-18-2005, 04:20 PM
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Folks we are all over the map here from ball joints, guide rod stuff, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, shock bolts, control arms, ect... why not replace every suspension/steering part until it is fixed! LOL! There has to be a better way to narrow this down. A true way to test each component.

Tenknots keep us informed, I am curious since mine has the same symptoms.
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2005, 04:26 PM
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there is nothing that should be replaced in the front suspension IMHO until a physical inspection warrants it. Jack it up, look at it, move it, etc. you can find it
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  #21  
Old 01-19-2005, 09:19 AM
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Lots of good advice here!

Right now, it's too cold to do much, but I will do what I think seems to be the definitive test for the guide rods. The car needs to be moving slowly forward and the brakes applied while somebody (me) watches to see if the rod moves. I'm almost certain it will, but I'll verify it before I order the part. Unfortunately, there has been conflicting advice on how to replace. Compress spring, don't compress spring, easy, hard, three hours, major PITA, etc. Those who have actually done it on a 300SD, I may PM you for advice.
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  #22  
Old 01-19-2005, 01:45 PM
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As I mentioned in an earlier post, you MUST get the car up on a rack and exert pressure against the joints in question. For the struts you must place a large crow bar in postion to move the joint back, excessive play wil lbe obvious.
I have seen this done without removing the spring, BUT, it was secured just in case.

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